Buenos Aires - Argentina

The Waldorf Hotel was conveniently located in downtown Buenos Aires or BsAs and despite it being above our budget we thought what the heck - at least for a couple of days. It took no time to realise that we were in a very vibrant city as we ventured into new territory on Av. Florida. The dances were tangoing in the streets (Marie, they don't tango with a rose, so no need to worry about the thorns) the suave males and foxy females confronting and beckoning our attention for their special leather product. The Av. was humming with music, activty and every now and then your assurance was broken by the scream of the siren.

Robby was struggling to ward off a two week cold and Paul was struck 'down' by a virus that grounded him for two days. So the inside of a hotel room was not the way to see BsAs. However, knowing our time here was ticking by we both did our best to regain the energy to experience this place we had been looking forward to.

We were not disappointed. Our experience was heightened by knowing a local. Well, she would hardly claim to be a local yet. We met Lyne, a French Candadian way back in Santiago, Chile. She had been to Bs As a number of times and was moving there to work (in May). She offered to take us to a local Parrilla or BBQ restaurant (more on that later) when we reached Bs As.

Bohemia isn't dead in Argentina. Lyne pointed us in the direction of art galleries, tango exhibitions and restaurants. So here are our stories...

Art galleries exist all over Bs As however a large number of them are located in one burro, Recoletta. They are mostly small and focus on particular schools from pop, to fine arts, to abstraction, to more quirky and ecclectic works. We also found one gallery that focused on late European 19th to early 20th century works (at Argentinian prices!). This burro was also lined with more exclusive shopping. A con gas aqua (water with bubbles) was our limit.

So off to a local tango exhibition (thanks to Lyne's advice). We are captured by this dance which they say is the 'dance of the emotion'. It is also about the music and singing and the passion that each person contributes to their part of the tango. Like a true artform it never stops reinventing itself, this first experience was a contemporary tango. It was very different to the street tango where the rhythm has much more of a gypsy feel. The Sunday markets at San Telmo provided yet a different slant on tango where the bandoneones (like a concertina) together with violin and believe it or not a piano is rolled into the park or street corner and the music provides a platform for tango dancing for young and old. We just can't get enough of this dance - it is the passion that all put into it plus the cultural proudness it seems to exuberate. Although, many locals are not as passionate about it as others, so we are told. Another evening was spent at a malingo dance hall. This was a different experience. The hall was like I could imagine the old dance halls of the 20s - large, ornate, tables around the edge of the dance floor and a stage at the front. We arrived around 10 pm to find a tango class in action. At 11 pm about 100 people changed shoes, music started and before long the floor was full of tango dancers of all shapes and sizes and ages and strutting their own interpretation of the music. It was quite moving given the age differences from around 20 to 80. At around midnight, a full tango orchestra arrived, played for 10 minutes then played cards? Still wondering whether they actually returned to the stage. We left at 1.30 for a very brisk tango walk (around 5 degrees) back down Florida Av. to the hotel.

There is no such thing as a bad restaurant in Argentina (at least in our books). Range of food was diverse; service second to none - even if you're the only person in the restaurant plus you generally receive a small treat at the beginning or end like a pate and/or liquor or champagne for free; quality - well, we thought Australia had excellent steaks but here they are extraordinarily tasty and large portions - the fish is great too; wine is particularly good on the palette, no matter what time of day; and price, well, with 2.6 Arg pesos to AUS $ that makes meals around half to a quarter of the price we pay in Australia. Only our colds prevented us from wining and dining at very good restaurants everyday.

There are a couple of Argentinian specialities - empanadas which are like meat pies except smaller and eaten as snacks or meals and the parrilla. We waited to have a parrilla with Lyne – she had first hand information about the best places to go. A parrilla is a meat feast. You actually see a picture of the cow and decide which bits you'd like to try. They are then bbq'd and brought to the table sizzling. Our first parrilla consisted of sweet bread, local sausage called chorizo, skirt steak and sirloin. They were all just medium size dishes shared between the three of us. Great 4 those on protein diet.

We didn't spend much time searching out museums and buildings, although Bs As is a mosaic of huge avenues with old charming neo classic buildings blended with modern highrises and skyscrapers of the 21st century and plazas all with sculptures marking various historical events.

After a week in the city we headed to the delta area about one hour from Bs As. The river Tigre is the main river. With just an overnight pack we found ourselves on one of the delta islands called Tres Bosca in a charming hotel which provided both a home cooked dinner and breakfast. It was a very crisp winter day just perfect for the two hour walk around the island. This area has similarities to Venice without the buildings but the charm of boats on the canals and rivers and piers of all shapes and sizes leading to colourful homes surrounded by pickett fences and large blocks of land. A path takes you around the island through a forest. No cars, just the sound of dogs and boats. This short retreat was just what we needed as we were still struggling with sniffles and coughs.

Back in Bs As we had a shopping list. Will we buy leather shoes, bag and/or jacket? Robby had a haircut, we replenished supplies ready for the next part of our journey and finished our stay with a night at a Parilla and a final tango show. This time our meal of sweet breads, kidney and patagonia lamb was followed by a Special Taramisu. Over the two hours we were entertained by a tango singer and dancers. This was topped off with a free champagne. A perfect way to end 12 days in Buenos Aires.

So we are now in transit at Madrid airp0rt on our way 2 Athens. We both thoroughly enjoyed South America and would love to return to Argentina as there is so much to see (preferably in summer). Greece awaits us. We are spending the first two nights in Athens, thanks to our host Jennifer and then on to the Island of Lesbos.

Adios South America and Yassous Greece.

Argentina - What will we do next?

Our plan is to be in Buenos Aires around 20 June so, with 6 days to spare we decided to look at the map and point to 3 or 4 place names that we have never heard of and, not on the tourist map, and see if we can get there and what we might find.

The bus system here in Argentina is very efficient and reliable so with names in hand we find ourselves on an overnight express bus, 10 hours in the most comfortable first class bed (even better than some of our hotel rooms) and arriving at Corrientes at 7 am. We left temperature of 27 degrees at 9 pm in Peurto Iguazu and arrive to 12 degrees and high wind factor and wet. Paul was the centre of attention with his shorts and open shirt. We spent the morning having coffee, purchasing sweaters and visiting a gallery and found we could get to our next destination, Goya (chose this 'cause he was an artist), the same afternoon. This time had a birds eye view of the passing scenery as we sat at the top of the double decker up the front seats. The three hours past by very quickly.

Goya was a quaint smaller country town on the river Parana. (We are following this rio all the way from Iguazu to Buenos Aires). Didn't take long to realise this is mainly a fishing town with nothing much else (a grafiti sign said; 'goya is dead') and at this point we made a decisuon that we should make this a food and wine expedition as well as sight seeing. A restaurant recommended to us by a local lead us to a very 'happy' evening of pate, steak, fish and a Lattitude 33 Cab Sav topped off with the owners own special liquor.

Our next destination, Santa Fe, 'cause we liked the name, and a 3 hour bus trip had us in a much larger city and with the bus terminal conveniently located near the centre and close to hotels, we were within walking distance of everything. So, out on the streets we headed. We like the long plazas they have here. Few, if any, shopping malls, crowds of shoppers. It seems that most shops stay open until around 10 pm - some close from around 1 pm to 4 pm. Resisting any temptations to buy, especially leather clothes, we headed for a bar and ordered a martinini which came with accompanying olives, nuts, and a plate of tapas - and that was just part of the service, no extra. We had passed a classy looking entrance to an Italian restaurant so returned to find it hidden through three lots of stained glass doors, smart looking waiters showed these two scruffy travellers to a table and before long a bottle of Bosca Luigu Cab Sav and pasta and veal satisfied our appetites.

The next day we decided to visit the contemporary museum and walk through the historical part of town. To our surprise there was no one around. Not even at 12 noon and it was Saturday. Couldn't work out what was going on so, finding the gallery closed headed back to the bus terminal to find a bus going somewhere.

We arrived in Rosario 3 hours later. A kind taxi driver took us from place to place to find accommodation. You can't trust the 'Rough Guide' books, two of the hotels they suggested were just skeleton of buildings. Finally decided the Hotel Presidente was fit for us - in fact a little above our usual class but after going to five hotels we thought we should just take it. It was then we found out it was fathers day in Argentina and, it was Sunday, not Saturday. Oh well, I guess holidays are like that - just lose track of days. OK does anyone know what is important about Rosario? This is the birth place of Che Guevara and as it turned out there was a photo exhibition of him and family. Interesting and lucky for us that galleries open at 4 pm and close at 10 pm on public holidays. Oh there was also an exhibition on Croatia so, (Vic and Vicki, it looks great) knowing we will hopefully be there later in the year, viewed this too. After this a pizza and beer was in order.

The next day in Rosario was again quiet. It was Monday - we had our days right - and later found out it was the Argentinian Flag Day. Rosario celebrates with gusto. The flag, blue and white was hanging everywhere and at the national obilesque women, with their Singer sewing machines were diligently assembling Argentina's biggest flag (around the size of two blocks) after which, in a ceremony, the locals raise it and carry it around and around the block. Quite an amazing and very patriotic sight. Can't quite imagine the same being done with the Australian flag. At lunch time we found a wonderful sunny spot and following the wine and food thing, a cold Latitude Chardonnay and hamburger we just watched the passing parade. Oh, one other thing here at Rosario was the Amigos Club of Torinos. Torinos are cars. Around 150 all dolled up with leather seats, rich colours and psychadelic painted engines were on display.

So this is the end of our pick a box tour. We're sitting on our final double decker bus ride before reaching Buenos Aires (5 hours) - upstairs, front seat with the trusty little computer finishing off this posting. Hopefully get it off tonight.

Iguazu - Brazil to Argentina

Iguazu or Iguaçu falls (Argentina/Brazil)

The first sign that makes you realise you´re near the falls is the attack on the auditory senses of a mighty roar coming from the screen of the jungle and above the trees one sees a plume of vapour. It could be a fire but no, it is the Iguazu Falls. On the trail we are approached by the local sheriffs ready to do the scratch and sniff test on our bags - a local native to the area the coati abounds - about the size of a ring-tailed possum but with longer rubbery snout and a striped tail. Cute as they are, when they decide to investigate further their claws firmly attach and there is a battle reclaiming ones bag.

So juggling the bags, camera and coaties is a challenge and they soon get the message - no food, no fun - and off they go.

At first glimpse of the falls one is immediately mesmerised by the size and extent. They stake a claim that these are the largest in the world. (OK Google freaks, check this fact for us.) At this stage we are still in Brazil and the Falls span two countries. The monumentality of the falls and the charging of the negative ions from the velocity and force of the water results in an osmosis of awe. We admired the falls from all angles and drenched ourselves in the mist (you’re a treasure Murray the plastic ponchos you chose well). And so, that was our day on the Brazilian side of the falls.

We topped that off with a visit to a local bird sanctuary and there we were excited by the extent and colour of, in particular, the macaus and toucans. Lo and behold there was also an interesting display of live reptiles. Here we really did see a group (what is plural for snake) of anaconda and we can tell you they were not small. So big, I almost fell over in fear trying to retreat from the cage as Paul stood in awe.

Crossing borders is often a challenge however, we two travellers take it in our stride. A local bus to the Brazilian Immigration for an exit stamp. Another 4 kms in another bus to the Argentinian Immigration for our entry stamp. Now in Argentina, a 10 min bus trip to the bus terminal of Puerto Iguazu, a stop off at the Information Office and there we have it - accommodation, map, reals to pesos and details on how to get to the Argentinian side of the falls. We decide not to rush off, instead go the following day.

We wondered how it could be any different to the previous day. First signs was it was much less commercial. The entry was cheaper and the entrance was less grand. A short walk to a train (bit like Thomas) that took us closer to the falls. The Argentinian side provided extensive boardwalks out over the falls with views that took in the calmness before the huge fall metres below. It generated so much vapour one couldn't see the turbulance below. Another boardwalk took us midway down some of the falls providing an amazing up close and personal experience of the falls. Just the volume and power of these falls was incredible. We decided against taking the boat trip up to the falls as we had been again drenched by the Iguazu (and RW has a cold).

That night we had our first Argentinian steak. That was when we decided that the food here is above average so lets make Argentina and food and wine affair. We then wondered what we would do next.
Pictures later, rushing to catch bus.

Rio De Janeiro, Brazil

'Tall and tan and young and lovely the girl/boy from Ipanema goes walking and... ' there are beautiful bodies, as well as ordinary ones. G Strings yes, also body bulges. We had fun looking. The world is made up of all shapes and sizes and here is no exception.
Both Copacabana and Ipanema beaches are quite stunning geographically, the surf is big - too big for me but Paul ventured in and has lived to tell stories of how he was dumped at Copacabana. I sit on the side and watch the passing parade which is really quite entertaining with the steady stream of vendors selling anything from caps, sarongs, belts, drinks, sweets, icecreams, beer, dresses, prawns on skewers, sun benches or chairs, and all singing to their own songs and calls. It's very entertaining, except if you feel like a snooze in the sun. Sundays the roads are handed to the pedestrians so it is a constant promenade of colour.
Of course 'When I go to Rio, De Janeiro' is constantly ringing through our minds, especially when we step out on the sidewalk in the morning or something exotic or unusual happens, like the guy who pulls a wheelie bin into the middle of the road when the traffic lights turn red, climbs on top and does a juggling act or the man that sits on the corner of Rue Copacabana and Rue Paula Reita and mends saucepans.
'Copa, Copacabana' has been our home for the past 11 days and it has been a real treat to stay put in one place (we rented a rather ritzy apartment) and really get to know the area. From early morning walks along the beach and becoming familiar with the surrounds, the people and feeling good just to do some normal exercise, to sipping pina coladas and caipirinha (a local cocktail) at sunset as well as simply sitting on the beach have all been part of the daily routine.
Of course, we also watched the beautiful movement of artists doing the samba, the capriera and swinging to the rhythm of the bosa nova. Had an historical exposa of Sergio Mendes beginnings, saw the street where people would through plates out of their high rises because of the noise Mendes made below, and, always delighted to hear the singing voices of people passing by in the streets.
Our expense bill is overdrawn here with all the CDs we've bought and special treats we have given ourselves. The Ipanema markets are the best anywhere with lots of stands with real artisans work. A bag here, shoes there, belts here, paintings there - the temptation was too great!
There are over 300 islands off Rio. We visited one the other day - Ille Grande - it was a tour on a schooner. It stopped at various places where we just dived into the ocean, had a swim and snorkel and then moved on. A great day and again met lots of travellers.
For those that know RW well, she is a football (soccer) fan - at least world cup standard - so attending a Brazilian football match was a certainty. We took then opportunity to attend the two top local teams in Rio. Fleminensce and Vasco. Taking the metro there and back was an experience in itself. The match didn't disappoint. All the funfare of a major international game with samba drums, whistles, firecrackers, and roman candles to match the colour of the team. With hotdog, beer and a brazilian bandana, we fitted in really well. The final score 1-1.
A visit to Sugar Loaf Mtn, whilst partly in the mist, did provide spectacular views of the surrounds, the huge rocky mtns, the beaches, the extensive high rise and of course the ride in the cable car was fun.
We celebrated a wedding in style whilst here also. Our dear friends Marty and Marie from Adelaide are now Mr & Mrs. I think, being at this distance gave us ample time to extend celebrations from the Australian time zone to Brazilian. In other words around 36 hours. Whilst all was buzzing away in Adelaide, here in Rio we decorated the apartment with flowers, drank champagne and had a lovely lobster dinner.
So now we bid a fond farewell to Rio and tomorrow head to the Iguazu Falls on the border of Brazil, Paraquay and Argentina.
For now, bye. Thanks to all for the links to Australia. Marlene and Kylie, great to know you are keeping in touch. xx

Morro de Sao Paulo, Brazil

Bus, Catamaran, Wheelbarrow and Tractor

We're taking time out and indulging ourselves in a little bit of Paradise on an Island off Salvador called Morro de Sao Paulo. After a night on the bus, reaching the port in Salvador early morning, then waiting for the catamaran, 2 hrs later we arrived on this island (it had been recommended to us).

We again were a wee bit suspicious of the porters willing to carry luggage. However, if you could see our luggage now, you would understand that any assistance is appreciated. Thank goodness we agreed as the ascent from the port was steep and the walk through the ritzy village to the centre was sandy (Wheels don't like sand.). The porters obligingly stacked luggage into the wheelbarrows to make it easy for us just to walk. They took us 2 the next mode of transport - a tractor pulling a trailer of car seats. 20 mins later we reached the hotel.

This little piece of paradise is only accessible by tractor - along the beach - horseback, or a very long walk so it is quite secluded. It is right on the edge of the 'Oceana Atlantica' and at high tide the water laps right at the front door. Palm trees, sunshine, surf, hummingbirds and we feel like we're in heaven.

There are 5 beaches, our home is on Beach 4, the quiet beach. Last night we took the tractor into beach 1 where all the action is, had a nice dinner and walked back in the moonlight past all the beaches. It was perfectly romantic.

Oh one other thing I should tell you. Paul has purchased a finger harp made from a sardine tin and coconut wood. He is composing some beautiful tunes including one he just played called 'The Lizard' - inspired by the bigger than slipperies that are around here and how they twitch their heads from side to side.


Leaving this little bit of paradise today and will arrive in Rio De Janeiro tonight.

Salvador and Lencoise, Brazil

Exhaustion and Great Food

We left the Amazonian on a high note after a wonderful night of opera at the historic Theatre Amazonian. With only one hour before the opera, we were lucky enough to get two first class box seats. The opera was tantilising, spiritual and with superb costumes and mystical jungle characters. The singing first class as was the orchestra. In the box next to ours, we were privileged to be introduced to the lady who wrote the libretto. She was also appreciative of we Australians taking time to see the Opera. It was the first night of performance. Between scenes we indulged in champagne - first since leaving home. Coincidentally we also met 2 other Australian people at the opera. It's amazing how quickly you can strike up a conversation and become 'friends' when the similarities and familiarities are in unison. The four of us had supper after the opera.

We reached Salvador on the east coast of Brazil and revelled in 'normalness'. The sun, surf, beach, bars and great jazz we felt at ease. The only missing link was the North Avoca Social Club. We transported (metaphysically) everyone to the jazz bar and nudged one or two alcoholic beverages. And we did the same for three days before heading into the hinterland to the Nationale Paque Chapada Diamontina.

This holiday has been one of extremes and the old cliché 'it is the journey, not the destination' is oh so true. However, we both agreed that sometimes the journey can be very strenuous and not quite what one expects. This trip to the national park sounded beautiful. Waterfalls, birds, wildflowers, blue ponds, caves, swimming in fresh water - really doesn't sound so unique, except we wanted to see and experience these things in Brasil. We were not disappointed. However, to get to each of these meant travelling over potted holes for 150 kms or climbing up a vertical incline for 3 hours (and then having to come back down – hard on knees) or, descending into the depths of a valley and thinking all the time the return journey will be up up up. So after three full days of 'extreme' exercise (Bridget, equivalent to three months at the gym) we should be feeling fit and healthy but instead aching and paining. We can say now, it was all worth it despite the vigorous exercise (Terry - just your sort of exercise).

At night in the village of Lencoise, we found excellent restaurants and just so you don't think all our food is rice and chicken, one night our dinner was: Entree - Panang Prawns decorated with vivid splashes of colour of tamarind, mango and gauva ice cream. Main course - Beetroot ravioli with parmessan and poppy seeds followed by desert of Cardomon Ice Cream and Chocolate coated Brownie. Of course the Argentinian Cab Sav was a great accompaniment.

So, it was time 4 extreme rest and relaxation.

Cruise down the Amazon

We had three days to spare before our cruise down the Amaon. Had already decided that we would take a slow boat to Manaus in Brazil. On doing the border crossing from Peru to Brazil, it didn't take us long to realise that no one, absolutely nobody, spoke English and only a very little Spanish so finding out information suddenly became quite stressful, very challenging and tensions between us mounted. However, as Paul reminded me, we are in it together and one way or another we'll work it out. And, so we did.

We found the port with the boats going to Manaus. There were two moored, one a very basic style with hammocks and another more luxurious looking with cabins. I insisted on a cabin. However, the boat Montivui didn't set sail for another three days but we could stay on board. At least this is what our interpretation was and worked out fine given only Portugese and body language was the communication.

We filled our 3 days going from Brazil to Columbia. (We thought afterwards that that probably looked strange, getting off the boat, catching a scooter to Columbia, buying supplies and returning with goods in hand). The Columbian town of Lucia was far more interesting than the Brazillian port town of Tabitinga. The very act of just 'doing' in this humid climate takes lots of energy so in the afternoons it was great just to retreat to our cabin and sleep.

The cruise started with a disappointing farewell from the shores of Tabitinga with a gathering of no more than around 15 locals farewelling their families, we waved to them. The lower deck of the boat was the cargo area and hammocks, the second for hammocks and the top deck cabins. We both felt another sense of adventure as the boat departed and we were again surrounded by the jungle. There were about 150 people on board, mostly in the hammock deck.

A Gandhi-looking brazilian and his cousin are in the cabin next to ours. To our delight, he speaks some basic English even though we are fast trying to learn some basic Portugese. He tells us that dinner isn't included tonight. Oh well, we do have some crackers, beer and some cheese.

And so we were on our way, the boat stopped in to around 10 small ports on the 4-day journey.We managed to 'Que horas' - find out the time for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
All announcements were in Portuguese. Including a loud yell and knock at around midnight the first night. Startled we jumped up to find the Federal Police at our door. There was a drug raid. (We wondered if we had been followed to Columbia and back.) Absolutely everything was searched. Our bags turned inside out, lining checked, shoes, contents of toileteries, under the bed, around the gap between wall and ceiling - nothing was left unturned. Passports demanded. These were not friendly police. However, we got the thumbs up - a sign of everything OK and settled back to sleep only to be woken by the fog horn with the boat nearing another port. That was around 2 am. Breakfast starts around 5 am and the signal is loud Brazilian music sung very badly screeching from the loudspeakers. We missed breakfast. Lunch at 11 am and dinner around 5.30. Weird hours.

And so the cruise continued. It was lovely sitting watching the jungle go by, the little villages on the side of the Amazon, as we read, slept, played dominoes, or meerly gazed into the vast landscape watching the various transformation of clouds, skyline, the mightly river and the vegetation.

Prior to leaving we decided to buy a bottle of the local alcholic beverage called cachaca. We thought that over the few days this would be a nice sundowner. We opened it on the first day - the smell to me was a little like kerosene but on tasting it it was more a whisky taste mixed with rum. (We believe it is made from rum and sugarcane). I decided to stick with the beer. Paul finished the bottle that night. His creative spirit, kicked in, the poetry was beautiful and then it hit. (It is now midday the next day and he is still asleep.) I don't think he wants to see another bottle of that!

The river cruise continued. We made friends with a number of brazilian folk including the people next 2 us who gave us some homemade cake. Another who would like 2 play dominoes with us as well as some of the staff who now check we havn't missed a meal.

The rest of the cruise was perfectly relaxing. In fact, it was comfortable and good to be in a routine again. About 40 mins out of Manaus we turned out of the Rio Amazon and into the Rio Negro (Black River). The swirls of the 2 rivers meeting is quite a dramatic sight. It looks like ying and yang patterns of contrasting colours. The Amazon has many tributaries or rivers which flow into it all the way from the Andes – thousands of miles. Its brown and fast flowing. The Rio Negro source is high in Brazil or may be Venezula and is very acidic hence its blackness. When the 2 rivers meet they travel for another eleven Klms before they integrate..

So we then arrived at Manaus. This is a major city of over million people. It was a shock to our systems with lots of activity at the port. In our relaxed state we were unexpectedly ripped off by a 'very helpful porter. So, thats life. We've now booked our flight to Salvador for Monday so it will be good to be near the beach again. We are taking one last trip into thejungle to where tle movie Anaconda was made. Tonight we are off to the opera at the Theater Amazonian in Manaus. Really looking forward to this.

So friends we are now leaving tle natural beauty of the Amazon. Looking forward to Salvador.

Keep your comments coming. The contact with home is wonderful.