We had three days to spare before our cruise down the Amaon. Had already decided that we would take a slow boat to Manaus in Brazil. On doing the border crossing from Peru to Brazil, it didn't take us long to realise that no one, absolutely nobody, spoke English and only a very little Spanish so finding out information suddenly became quite stressful, very challenging and tensions between us mounted. However, as Paul reminded me, we are in it together and one way or another we'll work it out. And, so we did.
We found the port with the boats going to Manaus. There were two moored, one a very basic style with hammocks and another more luxurious looking with cabins. I insisted on a cabin. However, the boat Montivui didn't set sail for another three days but we could stay on board. At least this is what our interpretation was and worked out fine given only Portugese and body language was the communication.
We filled our 3 days going from Brazil to Columbia. (We thought afterwards that that probably looked strange, getting off the boat, catching a scooter to Columbia, buying supplies and returning with goods in hand). The Columbian town of Lucia was far more interesting than the Brazillian port town of Tabitinga. The very act of just 'doing' in this humid climate takes lots of energy so in the afternoons it was great just to retreat to our cabin and sleep.
The cruise started with a disappointing farewell from the shores of Tabitinga with a gathering of no more than around 15 locals farewelling their families, we waved to them. The lower deck of the boat was the cargo area and hammocks, the second for hammocks and the top deck cabins. We both felt another sense of adventure as the boat departed and we were again surrounded by the jungle. There were about 150 people on board, mostly in the hammock deck.
A Gandhi-looking brazilian and his cousin are in the cabin next to ours. To our delight, he speaks some basic English even though we are fast trying to learn some basic Portugese. He tells us that dinner isn't included tonight. Oh well, we do have some crackers, beer and some cheese.
And so we were on our way, the boat stopped in to around 10 small ports on the 4-day journey.We managed to 'Que horas' - find out the time for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
All announcements were in Portuguese. Including a loud yell and knock at around midnight the first night. Startled we jumped up to find the Federal Police at our door. There was a drug raid. (We wondered if we had been followed to Columbia and back.) Absolutely everything was searched. Our bags turned inside out, lining checked, shoes, contents of toileteries, under the bed, around the gap between wall and ceiling - nothing was left unturned. Passports demanded. These were not friendly police. However, we got the thumbs up - a sign of everything OK and settled back to sleep only to be woken by the fog horn with the boat nearing another port. That was around 2 am. Breakfast starts around 5 am and the signal is loud Brazilian music sung very badly screeching from the loudspeakers. We missed breakfast. Lunch at 11 am and dinner around 5.30. Weird hours.
And so the cruise continued. It was lovely sitting watching the jungle go by, the little villages on the side of the Amazon, as we read, slept, played dominoes, or meerly gazed into the vast landscape watching the various transformation of clouds, skyline, the mightly river and the vegetation.
Prior to leaving we decided to buy a bottle of the local alcholic beverage called cachaca. We thought that over the few days this would be a nice sundowner. We opened it on the first day - the smell to me was a little like kerosene but on tasting it it was more a whisky taste mixed with rum. (We believe it is made from rum and sugarcane). I decided to stick with the beer. Paul finished the bottle that night. His creative spirit, kicked in, the poetry was beautiful and then it hit. (It is now midday the next day and he is still asleep.) I don't think he wants to see another bottle of that!
The river cruise continued. We made friends with a number of brazilian folk including the people next 2 us who gave us some homemade cake. Another who would like 2 play dominoes with us as well as some of the staff who now check we havn't missed a meal.
The rest of the cruise was perfectly relaxing. In fact, it was comfortable and good to be in a routine again. About 40 mins out of Manaus we turned out of the Rio Amazon and into the Rio Negro (Black River). The swirls of the 2 rivers meeting is quite a dramatic sight. It looks like ying and yang patterns of contrasting colours. The Amazon has many tributaries or rivers which flow into it all the way from the Andes – thousands of miles. Its brown and fast flowing. The Rio Negro source is high in Brazil or may be Venezula and is very acidic hence its blackness. When the 2 rivers meet they travel for another eleven Klms before they integrate..
So we then arrived at Manaus. This is a major city of over million people. It was a shock to our systems with lots of activity at the port. In our relaxed state we were unexpectedly ripped off by a 'very helpful porter. So, thats life. We've now booked our flight to Salvador for Monday so it will be good to be near the beach again. We are taking one last trip into thejungle to where tle movie Anaconda was made. Tonight we are off to the opera at the Theater Amazonian in Manaus. Really looking forward to this.
So friends we are now leaving tle natural beauty of the Amazon. Looking forward to Salvador.
Keep your comments coming. The contact with home is wonderful.
We found the port with the boats going to Manaus. There were two moored, one a very basic style with hammocks and another more luxurious looking with cabins. I insisted on a cabin. However, the boat Montivui didn't set sail for another three days but we could stay on board. At least this is what our interpretation was and worked out fine given only Portugese and body language was the communication.
We filled our 3 days going from Brazil to Columbia. (We thought afterwards that that probably looked strange, getting off the boat, catching a scooter to Columbia, buying supplies and returning with goods in hand). The Columbian town of Lucia was far more interesting than the Brazillian port town of Tabitinga. The very act of just 'doing' in this humid climate takes lots of energy so in the afternoons it was great just to retreat to our cabin and sleep.
The cruise started with a disappointing farewell from the shores of Tabitinga with a gathering of no more than around 15 locals farewelling their families, we waved to them. The lower deck of the boat was the cargo area and hammocks, the second for hammocks and the top deck cabins. We both felt another sense of adventure as the boat departed and we were again surrounded by the jungle. There were about 150 people on board, mostly in the hammock deck.
A Gandhi-looking brazilian and his cousin are in the cabin next to ours. To our delight, he speaks some basic English even though we are fast trying to learn some basic Portugese. He tells us that dinner isn't included tonight. Oh well, we do have some crackers, beer and some cheese.
And so we were on our way, the boat stopped in to around 10 small ports on the 4-day journey.We managed to 'Que horas' - find out the time for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
All announcements were in Portuguese. Including a loud yell and knock at around midnight the first night. Startled we jumped up to find the Federal Police at our door. There was a drug raid. (We wondered if we had been followed to Columbia and back.) Absolutely everything was searched. Our bags turned inside out, lining checked, shoes, contents of toileteries, under the bed, around the gap between wall and ceiling - nothing was left unturned. Passports demanded. These were not friendly police. However, we got the thumbs up - a sign of everything OK and settled back to sleep only to be woken by the fog horn with the boat nearing another port. That was around 2 am. Breakfast starts around 5 am and the signal is loud Brazilian music sung very badly screeching from the loudspeakers. We missed breakfast. Lunch at 11 am and dinner around 5.30. Weird hours.
And so the cruise continued. It was lovely sitting watching the jungle go by, the little villages on the side of the Amazon, as we read, slept, played dominoes, or meerly gazed into the vast landscape watching the various transformation of clouds, skyline, the mightly river and the vegetation.
Prior to leaving we decided to buy a bottle of the local alcholic beverage called cachaca. We thought that over the few days this would be a nice sundowner. We opened it on the first day - the smell to me was a little like kerosene but on tasting it it was more a whisky taste mixed with rum. (We believe it is made from rum and sugarcane). I decided to stick with the beer. Paul finished the bottle that night. His creative spirit, kicked in, the poetry was beautiful and then it hit. (It is now midday the next day and he is still asleep.) I don't think he wants to see another bottle of that!
The river cruise continued. We made friends with a number of brazilian folk including the people next 2 us who gave us some homemade cake. Another who would like 2 play dominoes with us as well as some of the staff who now check we havn't missed a meal.
The rest of the cruise was perfectly relaxing. In fact, it was comfortable and good to be in a routine again. About 40 mins out of Manaus we turned out of the Rio Amazon and into the Rio Negro (Black River). The swirls of the 2 rivers meeting is quite a dramatic sight. It looks like ying and yang patterns of contrasting colours. The Amazon has many tributaries or rivers which flow into it all the way from the Andes – thousands of miles. Its brown and fast flowing. The Rio Negro source is high in Brazil or may be Venezula and is very acidic hence its blackness. When the 2 rivers meet they travel for another eleven Klms before they integrate..
So we then arrived at Manaus. This is a major city of over million people. It was a shock to our systems with lots of activity at the port. In our relaxed state we were unexpectedly ripped off by a 'very helpful porter. So, thats life. We've now booked our flight to Salvador for Monday so it will be good to be near the beach again. We are taking one last trip into thejungle to where tle movie Anaconda was made. Tonight we are off to the opera at the Theater Amazonian in Manaus. Really looking forward to this.
So friends we are now leaving tle natural beauty of the Amazon. Looking forward to Salvador.
Keep your comments coming. The contact with home is wonderful.
3 comments:
At last Anaconda meets Anaconda. I hope said serpent doesn't get confused and take you for a high flying incan flamingo and eat you!!! Horrifying stories of penis sucking fish and early morning drug seaching heavies sent from your uncle in Colombia. Makes the bowlo and its salt and pepper squid all the more appealing. Some observations of our own whilst you have been away -
* Robby, you are fading away to a shadow of your former self. Now is the time to write the Dieters guide to the Amazon, including the all important liver and bowel cleansing diet.
* Paul, you are fitting in so well with your environment, soon the locals will take you for the South American version of Santa. You may however have to try a different tonic to wax perfect the home-grown poetry. They just won't understand any more chin-dribbling, comatose-accented english.
Keep up the adventures and wanderings and be very aware of the next smiling happy-to-help-you porter. xxxx
Hey you guys are fantastic. We laughed and laughed. So true, all your responses, except the one about the Amazon diet. We´re now at the beach and chilled out in the Atlantic today. your right, the salt and pepper squid sounds really appealing.
Love Robby and Paul
Yes (Anaconda meets anaconda) - the chapter we've all been waiting for - please don't let our fanciful photo become a reality Paul.
You help us enjoy the adventure and to feel "the tensions".
Imagine the elation next time directions are in English or you actually know what you are ordering to eat.
Hope Salvador holds a few little luxuries for you - Miss you guys!! kerry&jase XXXX
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