Meeting friends in Dubrovnik

Smiles from ear to ear greeted us as the hull of the boat Marco Polo lowered and our friends Vic and Vicki disembarked. Robby and Paul were equally thrilled waving furiously and shouting greetings through the fence.
Difficult to listen to one another as the excitement resulted in each of us talking at the same time and no one listening.
The walled city was our sanctuary as we wheeled V&Vs luggage through the medieval labyrinth of Dubrovnik. Wandering over the polished cobblestones reflected the joy of seeing our 'old' friends.
Reached our apartment, full of old world charm. Three storeys of steps (poor V's knee) had us opening the thick wooden door to the welcome of our Croatian hosts who treated us to slivervitch?, Brandy and home made wine. Rosey cheeks abound, we dropped off luggage and headed down stairs to the smells of cuisines and a celebration dinner.
Excitement has settled and we can now hear one another. Breakfast with a shot of good coffee and the boys a beer. The people traffic is getting busy but we seem oblivious to it as our attention is with one another.
Two tropical-like thunderstorms in the afternoon had us heading for early cocktails. A daiquiri, martini and black Russians put us in the mood for a snooze.
This was such a short time together as Robby and Paul, tonight, are on their way to Italy. A farewell dinner, loads of Vicki’s photos and we bid farewell to a perfect 30hr reunion.

Sailing the Dalmation

Bow Wow, 101 + islands Things here are not just black and white. As we travel through the islands spotted along the southern Dalmation Coast, on M/V Otac Nikola we pinch ourselves to remind us we are fulfilling a dream to sail (or motor) around these islands in the Adriatic and part of Croatia.
How lucky we are? So desparately wanted to get on board one of those cruise boats sitting in the harbour in Dubrovnik (that all the rich people get on) but hey, how can we make our budget stretch. Well you never know until you ask. A very friendly Captain was a few passengers short and, provided we were prepared to take a porthole cabin, it was ours for 7 days, full board and at a cost that with a stretch of our budget we were able to accept.
The dynamics of the 17 passengers onboard followed the usual group forming profile. However, with Croations, Germans, an Italian, English and Australians, there was an immediate segragation as a result of the language barriers. However, the barriers are only temporary as body gestures, grins arm or head shakes seem to be universal and add a new dimension to communicating.
So what is it about the Dalmation Coast? Our cruise is in the Southern part of the Dalmation Coast. Beginning in Dubrovnik. Each day we spend from 3-4 hours chugging along, one day with a sail, to quaint little nooks or coves and anchor for a swim and each night a different harbour. Usually moored in the harbour of a major town on the islands. The harbours always busy with sailing boats or cruise ships and a hive of activity both onboard and onshore. Some evenings, especially around the new moon, the party activity is much louder and more intense than others. The rest of the time the busyness of cocktail bars, restaurants and the usual sourvenir shopping brings colour and a buzz that is a holiday port.
The islands of Miljet, Korciula (twice), Hvar, Sipan and Lapud were our treats. Fortunately, it is now low season and that brings with it less people (can't imagine what full season would be like), and, I guess, fewer boats although, to us the harbour looked crowded.
Full board. Well, it is perhaps good that we are only here for 7 days. The kilo or two we lost since leaving Greece has now returned, plus more. Lunch and dinner are both 3 courses of freshly cooked local cuisine with choices from hearty stews and potatoes to cabbage and spinach mix with fish or fresh seafood risotto, anchovies, octopus, pork, chipalattas, always with soup, always with salad and followed by such treats as apple struddle - straight from the kitchen, orange icecream with chocolate sauce or simply some fresh fruit.
Once arriving at our ports, passengers head in separate directions but the sight of a familiar face in the town brings a smile and greeting as friendships grow. We take time out to climb castles, visit prehistoric caves, walk the narrow streets, climb towers, visit Marco Polos home, shop or, sit and have a cuppaccino or cocktail. This type of holiday we could definitely have more of.
Time seemed to pass far too quickly through a bit of chatting, reading, reflection and contemplation and before you know it, it would be time for another meal. There are of course the usual antics that Aussie boys get up to like Paul and Kim performing death defying acts from the highest deck of the boat into the crystal clear waters of the Adriatic - practicing their triple sommersaults; hiring a 5 hp dinghy and defying the strong winds to reach a nearby island for further swimming. Climbing to a cave to feel the ambience of where stoneage objects were found, climbing to the top of the hill to a 15 century castle or simply sunbaking on the deck.
Sometimes the chill in the breezes means retreating to the back of the boat to more protected areas or heading to our cabin for a siesta. So, life is good.
A text message late in the evening brings our senses back to our friends at North Avoca. Our dear friend Geoff has died and the sense of wanting to be close to our friends back home or simply making contact wih them is great. We think this is because of the great connection, support and love of our special NASG has that when saddness like this is present, strength is provided in that very support and connection they provide.
And so, we spend some time talking to each other about the joy, the laughs, the good times that our friend Geoff brought to us and how our sympathy goes to Gill and to Melanie and Christie. Next day, our boat is moored, a message from Debbie and Fellie link us back home.
The clarity and depth of the water gives time to meditate and think of friends back home. We dive in the water and think of our good fortune of having beautiful friends.
And so, after 7 days Otac Nikolas returned to Dubrovnik. At the last lunch there was a buzz but disappointment struck us when we found that our camera, in its case and with Robbys credit and cash cards had been stolen. Another adventure to the Police Station to get a report.
Our first port of call in Croatia was in the north - that was just a few days before joining the cruise. A place called Rijeka in northern Croatia. A bus change and we were on our way to the island Krk to Baska. Then onto Rab for a night before heading to Split and onto Dubrovonik. The coastline journey with shaggy rock edges that in the diistance look like sandy beaches, turquoise inlets, forested hills, lakes and villages. One of the most picturesque bus rides we have had, hugging the coast line of Croatia.
Dubrovnik's old city was a reminder that less than 15 years ago, this place was shattered by war. Now with much determination and effort to restore the old, it is a charming walled city full of tourists, restaurants, housing and activity.
Next we were heading to Italy but a text message from our friends Vic and Vicki who were arriving in Dubrovnik in 3 days meant we changed our plans to spend an evening with them. To fill in our time until they arrived we decided to head to Bosnia - Mostar and Sarejavo for a couple of days. We haven't been disappointed. Mostar, which was shelled and bombed, still has visible signs of the destruction. The 'famous' bridge which was bombed during the war and now rebuilt was a highlight. It is well known for the locals showing their masculinity by jumping from this 28 mtr bridge to the icy waters of the Rama Neretva River below. We were still with our Aussie friends from the cruise - Kim and Jaclyn so the evening wore on with cocktails and a farewell meal and more drinks. (Robby was a little surprised that Pavlos did not show his masculinity by jumping off the bridge!)
A train ride with many switchbacks, took us through a huge mountain range to Sarejavo. Once there we boarded a tram - one would think a reasonble way to cover a short distance and time was precious. A tram ride without stamped tickets means one is told to 'get off' and forced to contribute to the rebuilding of Sarejavo or go to jail We chose the former. A bit of a shock to our otherwide smooth travels.
Now on bus returning to Dubrovnik to meet up with Vic and Vicki.
No camera, no photos!

Footsteps in Venice

As we wind our way by bus up the mountains beyond Trieste (Italy) to Croatia, on route is a perfect time to reflect on our adventures in Venice.

Arrival

Venice, where the wash of the liner slapped against her thighs and penetrated into the darkest corners of the canals where saints and gargoyles watched the sunrise. Murmur... Phesyphus' wreath tilted in all her opulence of orange and pink to the sound of the bells tolling.

All the movies, pictures and postcards go nowhere near describing the overwhelming and incredible emotions that are associated with not only being in a new place but in a place that has something magical, mystical and truly different.

We trundled with our one trolley bag and small backpack through the alleyways, over bridges following signs to San Marco to our accommodation - an old monastery converted into comfortable rooms. Despite numerous wrong turns or shall we say minor detours, we arrived.

A quick shower and we were on our way to explore Venice. Of course, the major difference that sets it apart from anywhere else is that you walk everywhere, unless of course you wish to catch the ferry boats or a gondola - 'where bodies in elongated coffins float on silvery threads'.

Getting lost is part of the adventure here as eventually one will find a landmark or sign that leads you back to familiarity.

One of the wonderful attractions for both of us was the number of small 'boutique'-like art galleries, which not only exhibit local works but also have collections which might include a Picasso, Kandinsky Chagall or other famous pieces of work. There in front of your very eyes an Andy Warhole. We were also delighted to find that the Biennnale was on so no matter which corner we turned, there would be an amazing contemporary piece of art - video photographic, sculptures, robots, storytelling exhibits from all parts of the world (including Oz). Often the exhibits were in amazing Venetian palaces or other structures of time gone by which definitely contrasted to the exhibit's contemporary tone.

We were of course both captured by the number of shops selling glassware or masks. A reminder that Venice is the city of the masquerade carnivale and of course the home of Venetian glass.

On our first evening we left our monastic retreat with tickets to a concert which provided a resonance of redemption by a stringed orchestra dressed in black. It filled the space of the 16th Century Church. Vivaldi's Four Seasons charged the veiled and impaled sculptures of marble, the purity of death. Each season was projected through the skill of the professional and his violin.

Our second day was spent again, pounding the streets - different areas, the maze of streets all leading to a piazza and of course the 'hundred's of churches which also give a historical slant on art. The Chorus tour (we followed the map) took us from church to church. A siesta was in order before sitting on the edge of the Grande Canal to watch the Venezia Regatta Stoica - a regatta of boats from across time with the crew dressed according to the era. It was a picture that made us pinch ourselves to check we were actually there. The irony of it was that we were sitting next to a Biennale exhibit of a huge 10 metre skull made of aluminum pots, pans and jugs.

Day 3 was our day to buy a 24 hr ticket for any ferry. One thing about Venice is that it is not cheap so a one day ticket allowed us to experience the waterways as well as visit the islands of Murano and Burano. Murano is where the glass blowing takes place. Touters usher one in to their display rooms. No pressure selling once you get there and the display of works from the finery of the delicate chandeliers to the abstract creations of art work were a beautiful sight. The temptation to buy was huge but the difficulty of carrying around a chandelier or a piece of solid glass for the next few months wasn't that appealing. Instead settled for another ring.

Next stop was Burano. Apart from being the lacemaking island, it is also one where the houses are of many different bright colours which of course, after Venice and its subdued hues was a riot in colour.

Venice being our first Italian port of call also meant it was time to try a 'real' pizza and to Pablo's delight - hardly any cheese. Pizza was on the menu every day. We also tasted the fresh pastas and the Venetian specialty of liver.

Day 4 took us through new streets and back to some favorite places. It had rained over night so the freshness took on a different feel. The pigeons still abound in San Marco Square and the tourists following their leader waving flags of different shapes, colours and objects outnumbered the pigeons.

And so, Venice is behind us. Trieste, the last city in Italy before reaching Slovania and then to Croatia welcomed us with more pizza and pasta before a 2 hour bus journey to Rijeka and then the Island of Krk on the Dalmation Coast.

Yassous our beloved Greece

A mix of cypress pines and green olive trees carpet the countryside from mountain to the sea in Corfu - a Greek Is on the west coast of Greece in the Ionian Sea.

Our introduction to this island wasn't as beautiful as described. After a 5 hour bus ride from Thesalloniki and a 2 hour ferry trip to the island we immediately headed north to the area we had been told was the place to stay. Both of us were woken at our stop and slightly dazed from the long trip. All we could hear were English voices and see signs that read 'English Breakfast', Gutbusters Breakfast' 'Steak and Chips' 'English soccer matches live broadcasts tonight!', and most storekeepers had very English accents. Had we landed in the right place or were we simply spoilt by the fact we had been living and breathing Lesbos for so long? It was difficult to spot a Greek let alone find a friendly taverna with squid and sardines.

So, having eventually found some accommodation we set out to make the most of our few days here. It was a perfect opportunity to rent a scooter and head out of this place called Sadiri, at least for a day. And, what a day we had.

Firstly, we weren't satisfied to share a scooter so with two scooters we ventured out beyond the excessive load music and English undertones to explore Corfu island island and of course it offered all the beauty that Greek islands have - villages perched high on the mountain sides, ocean views with islets and blue grottos; snorkelling that provided crystal clear views of the thousands of fish of all varieties; hairbends that challenged our riding skills - some requiring foot on road to help balance the scooter; village signs we couldn't pronounce (Platonos); the Albanian coastline stretching in the distance; sheperds grazing their goats and traditional tavernas with Mythos on tap and tastie tomatoes in the Greek salads.

Bikes were returned after 24 hours with two very exhausted riders but also very satisfied and with the realisation that Corfu and its geography and vegetation is a stark contrast to that of Lesvos. Resting our weary bones we were lulled to sleep by the Karioki Bar across the road to the sour tunes of 'Living Next Door to Alice' and after a hard days ride the song that stuck in Pavlos' mind was Rawhide - it was enough to give you a Rawhide, Jimmy (see you go!).

The next morning we started the day with an English Breakfast! and a very bad cuppaccino before heading back to Corfu city. We are always amused and intrigued by the spontaneous happenings that a trip brings. By bus through some very narrow village streets always offers excitement - a simple reversing of these big buses in the narrow streets because of an oncoming truck brings the heart to the throat.. Further on a car had parked in a narrow street preventing the bus to pass. So, what should the bus driver do? Of course, hand held firmly on horn until a villager reacts. Mama, dressed in black comes from her small cottage with arms waving and shouting ella, ella. She sauantered up the street still yelling but trying to find owner. In meantime, horn still bellowing but to no response. So with some precision manouvering, the bus driver scaled the garden, scraped the reavision mirror and still mama was yelling 'ella'.

Corfu city endeared us with its historic area, galleries, huge bizarres and outdoor restaurants and tavernas. Whilst this was a short stay (3 days) the island does have some very beautiful attractions.

Thessaloniki in northern Greece mainland and the second largest city in Greece, was our first stop after Lesvos. Although suffering from a case of missing our temporary home and arriving on a Sunday when, in Greece, everything is shut (oincluding galleries), we managed to find the harbour walk, an authentic 'sweets' café and a great fish restaurant where we past the time for about 3 hours. The following day was a different story. The 50% sales had hit Thessalonki and we just had to shop - a new outfit for Robby (for Venice) and new Teva sports shoes for Pavlos (to help him walk faster). Thessalonki was simply a connection point on our way to Dalmation Coast.

We are now on an ocean liner having left Corfu this morning at 7 am for Venice. This is a 24 hour journey. We packed food supplies, our cards, dominos and books and have already enjoyed the swimming pool, a few glasses of wine - a very comfortable way to travel. We have reclining seats, no cabins as we are saving our pennies for Venice. Not sure which restaurant we'll go to on board tonights, but plenty to choose from and will certainly uplaod this blog with the onboard facilities.

By the way, we are back to one small wheelie bag and a small backpack. Hoping this will see us through for the next 2 months. The other two suitcases we left on Lesvos and will retrieve on our return.

See you in Venice or soon after. Think it will be a train trip to Split in Croatia going via Trieste, Italy.

Love to everyone.

PS We are blowing you kisses - did you notice?
PSS Internet on board boat was slow. Now in Venice.

Home is on Lesvos

Eight weeks have almost past since we arrived on Lesbos. Our batteries are recharged, our nest is very comfortable but it is time to move on. On 25 August we are boarding a Greek liner and heading to northern Greece to Thessaloniki before onward to Corfu.

The absence of any blog entry is not the result of little to talk about but more about getting into a routine of daily living that has been full of reflections , meditations and local activities. Thanks for all the lovely emails we have received from friends and relatives. Technology really does bring the distance closer.

So what have we been doing the past few weeks? Firstly, we (Pavlos and Robby) fit into the Greek way of life as if we have been here for 50 plus years. Our house here has given us the stability of home yet all things Greek surround us from the time we leave the door. Already we are thinking ‘how can we return to Lesbos next year?’. There are even possibilities of jobs if we so desire! In fact, Pavlos is contemplating a partnership with a fellow Greek which is top secret!!!!! Details will not emerge until such time as it eventuates... So guess as much as you like but hey, nothing will be divulged.

Our host Captain Giorgis returned on Thursday and his hospitality has left us drunk, sleeping even longer hours and visits to unique places only known by the locals. Even the ordering of food results in delights we had never experienced before. On top of all that, Pavlos is getting free cooking lessons. Salting fresh sardines and cooking lamb in retsina. This together with a range of vegetables was one of our dinners. Another day spent about 40 mins collecting sea urchins. After that went to a local taverna where numerous delicacies were ordered and of course a plate of fresh sea urchin accompanied that. Now how many can honestly say they have eaten this delicacy?

It's been wonderful spending so much time here. Most mornings Robby walks and/or swims then Pavlos meets at our favorite café for a Greek coffee or a frappa or fredo cappaccino. (Wonder if Terrigal Surf Club will be able to provide these when we return?) The owner of the coffee shop welcomes us with a ‘kalimari’ (we have picked up a number of Greek words) and we sit with the Greek locals sipping coffee and watching the 'tourists' pass by whilst Pavlos flicks his worry beads. It is always wonderful to return to our house and sit under the pagola of wisteria and grapes and watch the breezes turn over the Aegean as well as the cats preening and stregtching in the sun. At the same time think of the things that we could do, try and plan for the day and by then it is time to think about some lunch. Generally this has been accompanied by a short drive to one of the nearby villages such as Vaforus, Skala Skimanea, Anaxoss, Eftalou or numerous others where a swim in the clear waters precedes a 'light' lunch at a taverna. We are then ready for afternoon siesta. Siesta is an essential part of the day. A sleep from 4 – 6 pm provides us with the energy to keep going until the wee hours of the morning.l

Apart from our chores of caring for the zoo we have also managed two apartments with holiday makers coming and going. We now have other skills we can add to our resumes.

We have also enjoyed the company of our friend Richard from Australia. What we realise is that just having different eyes, ears and passion around provides a new dimension for us. So, thanks to Richard, we became more aware of the 'beautiful' people (especially the Maria's), a sense of adventure to head off to different places each day and to find our favourite taverna, beach or simply a favorite drive. Richard has also been a great cook and of course entertainer.

Our friends Gianni and Eleni (and sister Elly) have added considerably to this place being so much fun. We meet them at their car hire business around 10 pm, have a drink or two before enjoying a light evening meal, a drink or listening to some music.

We wonder what it is that makes Lesbos, Greece such an appealing place to be? Here are a few of the differences… greek coffee made on wood, feta cheese preserved in the hide of a sheep or goat, ouzo – numerous brands are made on this island, olive oil – we certainly know the difference between good and bad olive oil, pebbly beaches – sometimes a pain but the clear waters makes up for it, siestas, tomatoes (best in the world) tavernas… just to name a few.

So on Saturday we are off for the next stage of this sojourn. Having had the chance to read The Pillars of Hercules by Paul Theroux, we were inspired to rethink our adventure and made a joint decision to visit islands within the Mediterranean or their adjoining seas. So, the plan is this, after Corfu, we will catch a boat via Italy to the Dalmation Coast (Croatia). Hopefully set sail for a week or two around the islands. After that another boat to Venice before a train trip to eastern Italy to head to Corsica, Sardinia, Sicily, Malta and then back to Turkey. You see, we have been invited to a surprise party back here on Lesbos and plan to return before heading to Spain for a couple of weeks.

Lesvos, Greece

Dinner at 11 pm and bed at 2 am might seem crazy, but here on Lesvos it is the norm.

It's now over two weeks since we arrived in Greece and it didn't take too long to settle into a more relaxed way of living. After the very cold temperatures of Buenos Aires we reached Greece where the average is around 35 (Murray, not your kind of weather?). That is a very good reason to make the most of evenings and less of daylight.

Athens provided us with the touch of history with a visit to the Acropolis and walking in the footsteps of the ancient philosophers. Stayed with a friend, Brian, not far from the centre of Athens. After two days we then headed to Lesvos in the northern Aegean. (For the Google Earth folk, we are staying in Molyvos. Take a look at this gorgeous village with a castle on top of the hill and a quaint little harbour. We are staying half way between Molyvos and the nearby village of Petra.)

Our home is rather big compared to most places on this island. It also has two apartments attached to it and is on 1-1/2 acres. We are the caretakers. Our chores are minimal yet require regularity. We have the responsibility of feeding - night and morning - 10 cats (I did notice an extra one the other night), a pyschotic dog (so timid it runs away even when you put food out), 7 frogs, and numerous fish. Oh and we also have plants to water but that's not too difficult as there is a watering system on most. (There have also been problems with the sewerage system which has had to be attended to but will not describe it here.)

So, we have settled in very nicely. Paul was lucky enough to join Giogo, the owner of the house, on his rather large fishing boat the day after we arrived. They motored around Lesvos with Turkey on one side and Lesvos on the other to a Gulf where the boat is now in drydock. On the first day our hosts treated us to a wonderful greek meal in a nearby village called Eftalou at one of their favorite tavernas where the sea breeze of the Aegean filtered through the trees and the sea lapped on the pebbled beach. We could see the flickering lights of the villages of Turkey just across the strait. We had our first tastes of the Aegean cuisine of grilled octopus, sardines, aubergine, moussaka, grilled local lamb cheese and meat balls and the obligatory greek salad accompanied with ouzo and wine. It didn't take either of us long to realise we are definitely in another exotic country with different foods, languages and customs and a totally new experience was unfolding.

A week later a friend from the Central Coast, Richard, arrived. It has been great to have him here to share stories and to catch up on the happenings back home. His excitement and enthusiasm for 'anything' Greek is fabulous and we are happy to go along with anything he wants to see or do.

We all booked into a Greek cookery course. How much fun can one have? Eleni, our teacher, welcomed us with a Greek coffee and sweet apricot and then she soon had us picking fresh zucchini flowers from her vegetable garden for one of our dishes. We chopped, peeled, drank ouzo and wine, combined beautiful herbs and cooked, culminating in a real feast of greek lamb casserole, croquettes, aubergines and zucchini, rice pasta lamb and salad accompanied by more wine and ouzo and topped off with fresh watermelon - a traditional accompaniment at this time of the year. Yianni, her husband and Eva her daughter joined us for the meal around 2 pm.

This meal has been the beginning of a very warm friendship. Eleni grew up in Gosford and Yianni likes to dive (this is also a passion of Richards). With much in common, we have spent a number of occasions with them since - drinking, dancing, magging and entertaining. The latter, we cooked up a treat and invited them for dinner after they finished work at 11 pm. There are already plans for more sharing of recipes and tasting the results.

Night life is an important part of the Greek life. Not only because it is hot during the day but also it is a social gathering for people in small villages like Molyvos where most houses don't have outdoor living areas so meeting on the narrow cobblestoned streets, catching up on the days events and watching the passing parade is part of the scene. Eating outdoors is a very big tourist industry for 7 months of the year here. Most of the tourists are from Scandanavian countries, some Italians, Dutch and a few English. Around 10-12 pm when the shops close, the restaurants and tavernas are full. Emissions of food come from the kitchens, voices and music mingle in the crowded Molyvos restaurants. Within arms reach, colourful wooden boats rock in the harbour from a cool seabreeze and clear nights and winking stars make for a magical experience. Hence getting to bed before 2 pm can be sometimes difficult.

(Paul keeps pinching himself 'cause he's not sure it is real). Oh by the way Paul already has his worry beads (although he is still looking for something to worry about) and a big fat Greek ring and looking for some other exotic touches that will remind him of this venture. At this stage he is keeping with his name but Robby has a feeling that Andonis might be in the wind.

Having Richard here has prompted us to explore the island further. We spent a day (well we didn't start until 11 am) taking in small villages - most have a square, almost all have very narrow streets and groups of elderly men drinking coffee and swinging worry beads; a monestary with 'black' madonna; petrified forest; swims at various beaches before reaching Skala Erossos (the place where Sappho, a Greek poet supposedly lived in 400 BC) where we indulged ourselves in a generous helping of Greek cuisine before heading back home. Here on Lesvos, nothing is further than a day trip.

Another day took a drive to the east coast and visited the pottery village of Mantamadas. Unfortunately we had forgotten that most shops close for a long siesta between 1 and 5.30 so will have to go back another day to see the local wares. Another day another beach and to the top of Mt Olympus.

Petri, just 1-1/2 klms from our place is our favorite swimming spot. Mostly the water has been mild and flat so it is great for serious swimming. However for a couple of days it was extremely cold - certainly giving one the chills when you first dive in. Swimming is part of our routine, at least once sometimes 2 or 3 times a day but very little sun baking as the temperatures are far too high. The afternoon (or evening) swim is generally followed by returning home, sitting on the patio, looking across the Aegean with a glass of ouzo or wine and watching the sunset. Before we know it is 9.30 and Paul or Richard attend to a culinary delight. Robby of course compliments them on their creative dishes and fears that the time will come when she might have to head to the kitchen. If one is not feeling like cooking than we head to Molyvos or Petra.

Housesitting is fun (except for attending to the sullage and water systems). We will continue to relax and repeat the activities above for at least another four weeks. We have plans to visit Turkey (only 1-1/2 hrs away) for two or three days and also to visit a nearby island. That is of course if we can get someone to feed the zoo.

So folk, as you endure the cold temperatures of winter in Australia we think of you snuggled up in front of the heaters and feel happy that we can, at least for this year, not have to endure those cold mornings (especially on the train).

Buenos Aires - Argentina

The Waldorf Hotel was conveniently located in downtown Buenos Aires or BsAs and despite it being above our budget we thought what the heck - at least for a couple of days. It took no time to realise that we were in a very vibrant city as we ventured into new territory on Av. Florida. The dances were tangoing in the streets (Marie, they don't tango with a rose, so no need to worry about the thorns) the suave males and foxy females confronting and beckoning our attention for their special leather product. The Av. was humming with music, activty and every now and then your assurance was broken by the scream of the siren.

Robby was struggling to ward off a two week cold and Paul was struck 'down' by a virus that grounded him for two days. So the inside of a hotel room was not the way to see BsAs. However, knowing our time here was ticking by we both did our best to regain the energy to experience this place we had been looking forward to.

We were not disappointed. Our experience was heightened by knowing a local. Well, she would hardly claim to be a local yet. We met Lyne, a French Candadian way back in Santiago, Chile. She had been to Bs As a number of times and was moving there to work (in May). She offered to take us to a local Parrilla or BBQ restaurant (more on that later) when we reached Bs As.

Bohemia isn't dead in Argentina. Lyne pointed us in the direction of art galleries, tango exhibitions and restaurants. So here are our stories...

Art galleries exist all over Bs As however a large number of them are located in one burro, Recoletta. They are mostly small and focus on particular schools from pop, to fine arts, to abstraction, to more quirky and ecclectic works. We also found one gallery that focused on late European 19th to early 20th century works (at Argentinian prices!). This burro was also lined with more exclusive shopping. A con gas aqua (water with bubbles) was our limit.

So off to a local tango exhibition (thanks to Lyne's advice). We are captured by this dance which they say is the 'dance of the emotion'. It is also about the music and singing and the passion that each person contributes to their part of the tango. Like a true artform it never stops reinventing itself, this first experience was a contemporary tango. It was very different to the street tango where the rhythm has much more of a gypsy feel. The Sunday markets at San Telmo provided yet a different slant on tango where the bandoneones (like a concertina) together with violin and believe it or not a piano is rolled into the park or street corner and the music provides a platform for tango dancing for young and old. We just can't get enough of this dance - it is the passion that all put into it plus the cultural proudness it seems to exuberate. Although, many locals are not as passionate about it as others, so we are told. Another evening was spent at a malingo dance hall. This was a different experience. The hall was like I could imagine the old dance halls of the 20s - large, ornate, tables around the edge of the dance floor and a stage at the front. We arrived around 10 pm to find a tango class in action. At 11 pm about 100 people changed shoes, music started and before long the floor was full of tango dancers of all shapes and sizes and ages and strutting their own interpretation of the music. It was quite moving given the age differences from around 20 to 80. At around midnight, a full tango orchestra arrived, played for 10 minutes then played cards? Still wondering whether they actually returned to the stage. We left at 1.30 for a very brisk tango walk (around 5 degrees) back down Florida Av. to the hotel.

There is no such thing as a bad restaurant in Argentina (at least in our books). Range of food was diverse; service second to none - even if you're the only person in the restaurant plus you generally receive a small treat at the beginning or end like a pate and/or liquor or champagne for free; quality - well, we thought Australia had excellent steaks but here they are extraordinarily tasty and large portions - the fish is great too; wine is particularly good on the palette, no matter what time of day; and price, well, with 2.6 Arg pesos to AUS $ that makes meals around half to a quarter of the price we pay in Australia. Only our colds prevented us from wining and dining at very good restaurants everyday.

There are a couple of Argentinian specialities - empanadas which are like meat pies except smaller and eaten as snacks or meals and the parrilla. We waited to have a parrilla with Lyne – she had first hand information about the best places to go. A parrilla is a meat feast. You actually see a picture of the cow and decide which bits you'd like to try. They are then bbq'd and brought to the table sizzling. Our first parrilla consisted of sweet bread, local sausage called chorizo, skirt steak and sirloin. They were all just medium size dishes shared between the three of us. Great 4 those on protein diet.

We didn't spend much time searching out museums and buildings, although Bs As is a mosaic of huge avenues with old charming neo classic buildings blended with modern highrises and skyscrapers of the 21st century and plazas all with sculptures marking various historical events.

After a week in the city we headed to the delta area about one hour from Bs As. The river Tigre is the main river. With just an overnight pack we found ourselves on one of the delta islands called Tres Bosca in a charming hotel which provided both a home cooked dinner and breakfast. It was a very crisp winter day just perfect for the two hour walk around the island. This area has similarities to Venice without the buildings but the charm of boats on the canals and rivers and piers of all shapes and sizes leading to colourful homes surrounded by pickett fences and large blocks of land. A path takes you around the island through a forest. No cars, just the sound of dogs and boats. This short retreat was just what we needed as we were still struggling with sniffles and coughs.

Back in Bs As we had a shopping list. Will we buy leather shoes, bag and/or jacket? Robby had a haircut, we replenished supplies ready for the next part of our journey and finished our stay with a night at a Parilla and a final tango show. This time our meal of sweet breads, kidney and patagonia lamb was followed by a Special Taramisu. Over the two hours we were entertained by a tango singer and dancers. This was topped off with a free champagne. A perfect way to end 12 days in Buenos Aires.

So we are now in transit at Madrid airp0rt on our way 2 Athens. We both thoroughly enjoyed South America and would love to return to Argentina as there is so much to see (preferably in summer). Greece awaits us. We are spending the first two nights in Athens, thanks to our host Jennifer and then on to the Island of Lesbos.

Adios South America and Yassous Greece.