As we wind our way by bus up the mountains beyond Trieste (Italy) to Croatia, on route is a perfect time to reflect on our adventures in Venice.
Arrival
Venice, where the wash of the liner slapped against her thighs and penetrated into the darkest corners of the canals where saints and gargoyles watched the sunrise. Murmur... Phesyphus' wreath tilted in all her opulence of orange and pink to the sound of the bells tolling.
All the movies, pictures and postcards go nowhere near describing the overwhelming and incredible emotions that are associated with not only being in a new place but in a place that has something magical, mystical and truly different.
We trundled with our one trolley bag and small backpack through the alleyways, over bridges following signs to San Marco to our accommodation - an old monastery converted into comfortable rooms. Despite numerous wrong turns or shall we say minor detours, we arrived.
A quick shower and we were on our way to explore Venice. Of course, the major difference that sets it apart from anywhere else is that you walk everywhere, unless of course you wish to catch the ferry boats or a gondola - 'where bodies in elongated coffins float on silvery threads'.
Getting lost is part of the adventure here as eventually one will find a landmark or sign that leads you back to familiarity.
One of the wonderful attractions for both of us was the number of small 'boutique'-like art galleries, which not only exhibit local works but also have collections which might include a Picasso, Kandinsky Chagall or other famous pieces of work. There in front of your very eyes an Andy Warhole. We were also delighted to find that the Biennnale was on so no matter which corner we turned, there would be an amazing contemporary piece of art - video photographic, sculptures, robots, storytelling exhibits from all parts of the world (including Oz). Often the exhibits were in amazing Venetian palaces or other structures of time gone by which definitely contrasted to the exhibit's contemporary tone.
We were of course both captured by the number of shops selling glassware or masks. A reminder that Venice is the city of the masquerade carnivale and of course the home of Venetian glass.
On our first evening we left our monastic retreat with tickets to a concert which provided a resonance of redemption by a stringed orchestra dressed in black. It filled the space of the 16th Century Church. Vivaldi's Four Seasons charged the veiled and impaled sculptures of marble, the purity of death. Each season was projected through the skill of the professional and his violin.
Our second day was spent again, pounding the streets - different areas, the maze of streets all leading to a piazza and of course the 'hundred's of churches which also give a historical slant on art. The Chorus tour (we followed the map) took us from church to church. A siesta was in order before sitting on the edge of the Grande Canal to watch the Venezia Regatta Stoica - a regatta of boats from across time with the crew dressed according to the era. It was a picture that made us pinch ourselves to check we were actually there. The irony of it was that we were sitting next to a Biennale exhibit of a huge 10 metre skull made of aluminum pots, pans and jugs.
Day 3 was our day to buy a 24 hr ticket for any ferry. One thing about Venice is that it is not cheap so a one day ticket allowed us to experience the waterways as well as visit the islands of Murano and Burano. Murano is where the glass blowing takes place. Touters usher one in to their display rooms. No pressure selling once you get there and the display of works from the finery of the delicate chandeliers to the abstract creations of art work were a beautiful sight. The temptation to buy was huge but the difficulty of carrying around a chandelier or a piece of solid glass for the next few months wasn't that appealing. Instead settled for another ring.
Next stop was Burano. Apart from being the lacemaking island, it is also one where the houses are of many different bright colours which of course, after Venice and its subdued hues was a riot in colour.
Venice being our first Italian port of call also meant it was time to try a 'real' pizza and to Pablo's delight - hardly any cheese. Pizza was on the menu every day. We also tasted the fresh pastas and the Venetian specialty of liver.
Day 4 took us through new streets and back to some favorite places. It had rained over night so the freshness took on a different feel. The pigeons still abound in San Marco Square and the tourists following their leader waving flags of different shapes, colours and objects outnumbered the pigeons.
And so, Venice is behind us. Trieste, the last city in Italy before reaching Slovania and then to Croatia welcomed us with more pizza and pasta before a 2 hour bus journey to Rijeka and then the Island of Krk on the Dalmation Coast.
Arrival
Venice, where the wash of the liner slapped against her thighs and penetrated into the darkest corners of the canals where saints and gargoyles watched the sunrise. Murmur... Phesyphus' wreath tilted in all her opulence of orange and pink to the sound of the bells tolling.
All the movies, pictures and postcards go nowhere near describing the overwhelming and incredible emotions that are associated with not only being in a new place but in a place that has something magical, mystical and truly different.
We trundled with our one trolley bag and small backpack through the alleyways, over bridges following signs to San Marco to our accommodation - an old monastery converted into comfortable rooms. Despite numerous wrong turns or shall we say minor detours, we arrived.
A quick shower and we were on our way to explore Venice. Of course, the major difference that sets it apart from anywhere else is that you walk everywhere, unless of course you wish to catch the ferry boats or a gondola - 'where bodies in elongated coffins float on silvery threads'.
Getting lost is part of the adventure here as eventually one will find a landmark or sign that leads you back to familiarity.
One of the wonderful attractions for both of us was the number of small 'boutique'-like art galleries, which not only exhibit local works but also have collections which might include a Picasso, Kandinsky Chagall or other famous pieces of work. There in front of your very eyes an Andy Warhole. We were also delighted to find that the Biennnale was on so no matter which corner we turned, there would be an amazing contemporary piece of art - video photographic, sculptures, robots, storytelling exhibits from all parts of the world (including Oz). Often the exhibits were in amazing Venetian palaces or other structures of time gone by which definitely contrasted to the exhibit's contemporary tone.
We were of course both captured by the number of shops selling glassware or masks. A reminder that Venice is the city of the masquerade carnivale and of course the home of Venetian glass.
On our first evening we left our monastic retreat with tickets to a concert which provided a resonance of redemption by a stringed orchestra dressed in black. It filled the space of the 16th Century Church. Vivaldi's Four Seasons charged the veiled and impaled sculptures of marble, the purity of death. Each season was projected through the skill of the professional and his violin.
Our second day was spent again, pounding the streets - different areas, the maze of streets all leading to a piazza and of course the 'hundred's of churches which also give a historical slant on art. The Chorus tour (we followed the map) took us from church to church. A siesta was in order before sitting on the edge of the Grande Canal to watch the Venezia Regatta Stoica - a regatta of boats from across time with the crew dressed according to the era. It was a picture that made us pinch ourselves to check we were actually there. The irony of it was that we were sitting next to a Biennale exhibit of a huge 10 metre skull made of aluminum pots, pans and jugs.
Day 3 was our day to buy a 24 hr ticket for any ferry. One thing about Venice is that it is not cheap so a one day ticket allowed us to experience the waterways as well as visit the islands of Murano and Burano. Murano is where the glass blowing takes place. Touters usher one in to their display rooms. No pressure selling once you get there and the display of works from the finery of the delicate chandeliers to the abstract creations of art work were a beautiful sight. The temptation to buy was huge but the difficulty of carrying around a chandelier or a piece of solid glass for the next few months wasn't that appealing. Instead settled for another ring.
Next stop was Burano. Apart from being the lacemaking island, it is also one where the houses are of many different bright colours which of course, after Venice and its subdued hues was a riot in colour.
Venice being our first Italian port of call also meant it was time to try a 'real' pizza and to Pablo's delight - hardly any cheese. Pizza was on the menu every day. We also tasted the fresh pastas and the Venetian specialty of liver.
Day 4 took us through new streets and back to some favorite places. It had rained over night so the freshness took on a different feel. The pigeons still abound in San Marco Square and the tourists following their leader waving flags of different shapes, colours and objects outnumbered the pigeons.
And so, Venice is behind us. Trieste, the last city in Italy before reaching Slovania and then to Croatia welcomed us with more pizza and pasta before a 2 hour bus journey to Rijeka and then the Island of Krk on the Dalmation Coast.
3 comments:
Just when you thought it couldn't get any better, Pavlos takes the helm and the superlatives lure us once again in to your epic adventure. The watery world of piazza's, waterways, gondolas, bridges, opera, galleries, glass - magnifico!
Krk,hmmm, sounds intriguing. BRING IT ON !@#$
ps.
Nice ring in the photo - is it 'the' purchase?
Bonjourno Robina! Brings back more than a few memories for me of the time we spent there back in the old days when you were 50! Is sounds as good or if not better the second time around. What about the gelato and limoncello - did you indulge? And the Vivaldi concert - fantastic. All well here. Max had taken to swimming with the ducks in the mud pond. Got a new car. Going on houseboat next week. Love to you both. Marie
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