Bombay to you is Mumbai to me

There are some thngs that are eternally India. As we opened the doors at the Mumbai airport to the surrounds, these things unfolded and became evident:

Jostling of taxis, cars, buses and man-pulled or pushed carts, bicycles. The endless hornblowing for no apparent reason other than that it is there so why not use it.

Women in beauatifully coloured saris which flowed as they walked bearing their soft middrift skin and shiney jewel-covered sandles amongst the crowds of plain clothed men in greys and black.

Men, women and children beggars at the window of the taxi or holding out a hand (or no hand) as you pass by.

Large billboard posters displaying the latest Bollywood film. We were in Mumbai for the release of the latest movie Om Shanto Om - a spoof about Bollywood which drew some critical acclaim from one of the veteran Bollywood actors who had been parodied and became offended - another great Bollywood movie looming - was he paid or was it real?

The crowded street bizarres - the Fashion Street, the Silk Street, the Perfume Street, the Pots and Pans Street lined with wares displayed around the entrance to a small alcove of cluttered goods waiting to be found and purchased.

The vendors, persistent in their 'welcome', 'come in', 'special price', 'no need to buy, just look','would you like a cool drink'.

The irritating repetitiveness of Indians degrading each other in terms of 'he is a thief', 'their work is inferior', 'that shop is too expensive', - all to catch some trade themselves.

The occasional naked man in nappy-style dress with the red or yellow blotch on his forehead.

The intense smell of burning incense together with indian perfumes, exhaust fumes, urine, hot curries cooking and the oppressive humid heat.

The squawking of crows or vultures picking the crumbs of scraps in nearby garbage.

The endless roadworks, paths blocked and buildings in need of repair or falling down from deglect.

Our five days in Mumbai reminded us of the beauty and the tragedy of India and its people. We were cocooned from the poverty the minute we entered our West End Hotel until we entered the streets the next day. We experienced numerous taxi rides in taxis that displayed decorated Krisna, Ganasha and other dieties, with fluoresent cabin lights glowing blue, carpeted ceilings and the reflection in the panoramic reavision mirror of the big dark eyes and white teeth of the smiling taxi driver.

The 'better-class' restaurants with their rich array of menu items provided us with great vegetarian delights of samosas, curries, yoghurst dishes, lentils and many other tastie delights that also cleared our digestive tracks.

We were taken by the extent of exotic jewellery, the multiple rolls of fabric in every known colour and quality, the obliging nature to make anything we liked for self or family and were the recipients of constant hassling to purchase goods which we sometimes succumbed.

We were able to measure the extent of pollution in the air in the mornings by the degree of the slit in Paul's eyes and the residue of particles glueing his eyelids together.

The craziness of this city played on Robby's conscience in sleeping hours with her waking in the night to visions of being followed by a stalker who that evening aggrevated her by touching and stroked her and the sadness of the sight of a baby lying on the footpath naked for all to step over.

In a few hours we are on our way home. It feels like we have had a lifetime of experiences in this one place.

Our minds are focused on returning to North Avoca, seeing family and friends, a swim in the ocean, a good BBQd steak, a cappuccino at the surf club and reliving our experiences through stories to those who are interested in listening.

The 219th day of this journey is with us.

Madrid and Farewell Europe

We arrived in Madrid after a very long, cold and cramped bus trip from Malaga. Fortunately had accommodation booked so were soon thawing under a warm shower and before long eating a nice hearty chinese meal near the hotel.

The next day we were keen to get our visas for India so that meant finding our way to the Indian Embassy on the other side of Madrid. On arrival we were reminded of the very beuracratic way of doing things the Indian have. After 1-1/2 hour wait we were told we could pick up our visas in a weeks time. Of course by then, we had hoped to be in India. After much tooing and froing they agreed to provide the visas in four days time for an additional fee of 44 euro. Next we nedded to secure accommodation for an additional night so set out to find a more reasonably priced hotel or hostel. We were in luck with a hostel with much better room facilities than our hotel and 30 Euros less and just across the plaza.

Again the art scene was at our fingertips in Madrid. With a special ticket to the three major galleries - The Museum Thyssen-Bornemisza, Museo Del Prado, Centro de Artereina Sofia. What is interesting and enjoyable about the galleries is that you can in fact view the entire gallery in 3-4 hours. There is always exceptional paintings that we had seen in picture books or read about but never dream would see the real thing. For example in Sofia we were treated to the well known works of Picasso - Guernica. To see it in real life, and the sketches and paintings that led to this masterpiece one can understand the trauma the society must have been enduring at the time of the Spainish Civil War. It was accompanied by a display of photos of Madrid - plazas and metro stations we had visited - during this time in history.

The Prado had just opened a new wing days before we arrived. On one level there was an amazing collection of Goya's etchings and drawings from bullfights to street scenes. The gallery itself was amass with El Greco, Velazquez, Van Dykes, Goya, Ribera and Rubens as well as many others.

On our final day, and battling colds, we headed to the Thyssen. This museum which is primarily a collection of the works of Baron Thyseen-Bornemisza and his wife Carmen Tita Cervera, a former Miss Spain. It provided a chronological display of works form the baroque and early renaissance through to the impressionists and modernists such including works by Pissaro, Van Gough, Degas, Monet, Cezanne, Freud, Kooning, Chargal, Kandinsky Klee and Rothko. It was a potpourri of surprises, colour and energy and left us on a high.

A visit to the train terminal with a central tropical garden with ponds of turtles, water sprayers brought us back to a humid surrounds and reminded us of the jungles. Unfortunately, everything was booked out to Barcelano so we delayed our return for yet another day and of course this had a domino effect requiring further accommodation. We were in luck though as another move meant we were in yet another hostel within the same plaza. It also meant we witnessed the trimming of the Xmas tree in the main square where the bear eats the strawberries from the stawberry tree. This is also where Madridians celebrate New Years Eve.

Madrid also gave us flamenco singing, music and dancing. There is something about these together that really arouses the emotions. The intensity of the singing, the deliberate and imposing steps and engaging expressions of the dancers places you tentively in their hearts and minds. We firstly visited a flamenco show in the back of a café bar. With sangria in hand the display of singing, guitar playing and dancing whetted our thirst for more. The three men singing dramatic songs of 'we don't really know what' but they were almost contorted with the emotion as they sung. The two guitarists were completely taken by what appears to be disjointed tones of flamenco but who, together provided a sound that again enthralled us. The dramatic entry of the female flamenco dancer decked out in her frilled spotted dress and tapping her toes and heels to the rhythm, the frowned expression of emotion and the hands and arms equally displaying the emotion all had us enchanted. The male dancer didn't disappoint either. With his slender body covered in black pants, a cumberbun, a short waistcoat, white shirt and the boots of a flamenco dancer he had the beat and movements that were so intense that within minutes the sweat was pouring from his brow and to our amazement and enjoyment he continued tapping and twirling suggestively for at least 15 minutes.

'Fully inflated lungs wailed and bellowed in unison with the sacks of emotions extending the dancers tendrils to the fragmented rhythms of the flamenco guitars. The audience was won with the screams of ola, bravo heurpa.'

The show lasted 2 hours.

The second flamenco show the next night was much more contemporary. In fact it was really a ballet so whilst it still had some intensity of the previous nights flamenco show it also incorporated various variations with colourful costume, various contemporary routines and had recorded music. So again it was capativating but not quite as enjoyable as the authentic routine in the café bar.

And so, with the weather turning quite cold - requiring leather jackets and warmer undies, we ventured into the endless plazas, viewed the amazing monuments including one to the street sweepers and walked the streets. We also learnt that drinking and eating at the bar can save you many euros and that churros (a fritter) are served with hot chocolate so you can dunk them. So why tell you this? We had had churros in Ronda and when the waiter came with a cup of hot chocolate we politely told him we hadn't ordered a hot chocolate. He took the hot chocolate away and no doubt had a giggle at our ignorance. We were better informed the next time. Ah well, you learn a lot from travel!

Finally on our way to Barcelona where we deposited most of our luggage until we returned and from here we head to India. The trip through the open plains where the rain mostly falls was dry. The hills and mountains were adorned with the colours of autumn tones in the patchworked paddocks of grapes, citrus, olives and many other varieties of fruit shedding their leaves. The soil changes colour from a the stark white of newly farrowed stripes to rich red and black of the lush soils.

We left Madrid with some sad news that our friend Marie in Adelaide is back in hospital so she is at the foremost of our thoughts.

With only a day left in Europe we still have a couple of galleries to view. Spain is a beautiful country.

PS Just finished our final day in Barcelona. It was a full day of Gaudi. From the historic Sagrada Familia (church still under construction after 125 yrs) to the La Pedera (an apartment block designed by Gaudi) and then on to Park Guell with an amazing display of mosaic art and more lollypop type architecture of Gaudi. All in all it was an exceptional look at one of the worlds famous architects on a beautiful autumn day in Barcelona.

So tomorrow it is on to India and with only 8 days before we reach home!!!!!

Where is Benagalbon?

If you find Malaga on the map on the south coast of Spain and travel east for around 25 kms then there is Benagalbon. Why are we here? We're visiting our friend Inger's sister, Gudrun. Gudrun has lived in Spain for 18 years and it is wonderful to be here with a local who has generously shown us the 'real' Spain. The beautiful countryside with the hillsides scattered with almond, citrus, olive trees. Also mangoes, avocados, vineyards, valleys full of market gardens, and drying beds for some grapes to become raisins. From the mountain top we saw small villages with their whitewashed houses and farmhouses dotted around the mountainside.

A stop off in a village led us through the narrow streets, some tapas and coffee and a local spanish lady beckoning us into her house to see what she has for sale. We walk out with fresh almonds, raisins, mangoes, dried figs and quince jelly. We then wound our way back down a very windy road to the coast.

The next day Gudun accompanied us into Malaga. The main pedestrian street was flanked by Rodin sculptures (a special exhibition), we ordered café con leche and sat outdoors to watch the passing parade. The highlight of the day was a visit to Museum Picasso. Picasso was born in Malaga and his grandson and daughter in law donated an exceptional display of his work to the gallery. We also paid a visit to his house of birth where there were a number of photographs of childhood plus many small sketches and artworks of his as a child.

A drive along the coast gave us a glimpse of the vastness of the Mediterranean and the black sands.

Paul and Robby were so taken by the countryside we decided to take the hire car into the countryside of Andalusia for a couple of days. We weaved our way through cork forests, mountain ranges and by lakes to the district of Ronda (the home of the first modern bull fight for which they are very proud!) and then down to the Costa de Sol. Our introduction to the coast was on dark, there was much traffic on the fourlane highways as well as hundreds of kilometres of townhouses. This is the area, we are told, that many English have bought villas etc for the summer with many migrating here. We managed to get ourselves completely lost after a couple of hours of driving and anxiety levels heightened we decided to bed down at the first available hotel - next to a casino in Marbella. The accommodation was above our normal standard but hey, when one is lost you don't have much choice. And, it is the first time on this trip we have been offered champagne for breakfast.

The next day we woke to the sun rising over the ocean and the mountain range covered in rain clouds. Our trip took us along the Costa del Sol. Back at Benagalbon, Gudrun had organised the 'best' home cookked paella at the local restaurant in the village.

The following morning Gudrun accompanied us to the bus station and bid us a fond farewell and safe travel as we departed for Madrid.

Barcelona - Valencia - Granada

Although we were both feeling a little travel weary, as soon as we hit Barcelona that changed. Spain was to be an indulgence of art and, Barcelona certainly was a fine introduction. With a special Art Ticket to visit 7 galleries we saw 4 of the 7 galleries with two of them specialist galleries of some of our favorite artists. Paul was meditative by the display of Antoni Tapies and for Robby the colour and the whimsical symbols of the art of Joan Miro. On top of these two exhibitions there was the wonderful display and retropspective of Picasso, the Barcelona Contemporary Museum and not having enough time we just have to return to see the Centre for Cultural Contemporary art and the fairy-tale-like structures of Guadi.

That wasn't all Barcelona had to offer. We found just walking along the streets of the Gothic quarters an array of wonderful architecture and myriad of squares with interesting gargoyles and sculptures. The markets - the fruit, vegies, cheeses and proscuito and the artesan markets with hand made jewllery, clothes, jars of jams and olives, as well as hams traditionally cured, pates and pastries to die for.

As we left Barcelona we were happy knowing that we would spend another two or three days before heading home.

So, we then headed for Valencia where we new there was much to see especially around the major Plazas and some modernist architecture. For the first time on this 7 month journey we arrived and was unable to find accommodation. A very friendly taxi driver took us to over 6 hotels without any luck plus phone calls to many pensiones and hostels left us homeless for an evening. The next best thing was to get on a train and head to our next destination Granada. We were lucky. The train didn't leave until 1 am which gave us 8 hours to see Valencia. The weather had turned quite cold and wet so the first stop was another art gallery with paintings by Valequez, Goya, El Greco and Van Dyke. We then walked and walked the inner streets of Valencia until we had had enough, found a bar then moved on to a paella café (Valencia is the home of paellas) and sat until it was almost time to catch the train. We arrived in Granada at 9:30 am.

Granada offered us the beauty of Alhambra. The only tickets we could get were to the gardens and to Generalife gardens. What a treat this was with the acres of very manicured hedges and colourful flowers and waterfuls. 4 hours walk went by without noticing. Today we are moving onto Malaga and looking forward to meeting up with a friend Gudrun.

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Lesbos for Three Days

Our excitement was high as we reached the shores of Lesbos in the ferry from Turkey. It was a strange feeling returning to the place we had become so familiar with and part of for 2 months in the summer. We were returning for our hosts surprise 70th birthday and to reaquaint ourselves with the surrounds in a different sort of way. This time we stayed in an apartment high on the hill of Molyvos, near the castle and only accessible by walking through the steep and cobble stepped streets. The front balcony demanded a view over the terracota roofs to the island in the distance. This in many ways was quite a contrast to our home of 2 months on an acreage with all the cats and an uninterrupted view to the Aegean.

Another stark differences was the absence of tourists. Literally no one around except the odd gathering of Greek men having coffee in the handful of coffee places and restaurant still open. The dogs which seemed to have taken over the village outnumbered the cats, although, when we opened our doors to the balcony we were greeted by a 'desparate' meeow trying to take refuge from the cold and wet.

The weather was the starkest of contrasts. For our previous 2 months in summer we had only seen blue skies. Not even a whisper of cloud. This time, the sky was enveloping us with its deep greys to black skies, the rumblings of thunder, the skuds of rain, the intermitent strong winds and the chill.

The harbour of Molyvos was quiet, except for the fishing boats which had anchored to seek shelter from what was locally considered strong winds and bad weather. No restaurants open - well on the last day we found one to enjoy a final fresh Greek squid and a Greek salad.

We love Lesbos and even more in the summer time.

Our friends Gianni and Eleni who were busy with their car rental business 16 hours a day in the summer were now busy preparing for the olive season. Laying nets etc as well as building a house. A welcoming Greek coffee from them and before long the four of us were out snail hunting. There was a pause in the rain and the hills were alive with the locals collecting snails. Huge hard-shelled juicy looking characters (the snails) emerge after the first rains. This is a sign that the season has changed, and the snails are a tasty treat. Within an hour the four of us had collected around 200 of these cute little delights and Eleni had a special recipe that would delight the family after a few days of preparation. Instead, they treated us to a wonderful homecooked dinner.

And then there was the party. We new this was going to be big when Melinda, the No.1 daughter started talking about it back in June. The first night we arrived we greeted a couple from Oaxaco,Mexico as they arrived at the castle and we escorted them to the same residence as ours. Michele and George instantly became our new friends as we spent many hours talking, eating, drinking and sharing stories. The following day some more Aussies and people from London, America, Thailand, Zanzibar arrived.

The party was a total surprise. As Jenifer enetered the hotel dining room with her 5 daughters and husband Giorgo, she was greeted by over 100 guests from all corners of the world. One could imagine how overcome she was and the surprise and thrill showed in her actions and comprehension that this was her birthday. And so the party continued until the wee hours of the morning. Fine food, wine, ouzo, water, singing, dancing - greek and modern, fireworks, 70 lanterns lit and rose to the skies. The weather had cleared and the sight of these lanterns rising higher and higher was like something from a fairytale.

The evening surprise was not the end of the party. The following day all long distant travellers were invited back to 'our' home on the hill for another birthday cake and more food. The atmosphere was much more subdued but equally exciting. There was no sign of our dog Roger or the numerous cats we had cared for over the 2 months in summer.

And so our time in Lesbos was over and with an early flight to Athens (we spent the day roaming the streets and a last vista of the Acropolis) we are now in Barcelona.

Gallipoli and Troy

'If you go to Turkey any Australian or New Zealander must see Gallipoli.' words we had heard many times so, despite Robby's reluctance Gallipoli was on our way back down the coast (we are now going anticlockwise). We hopped on a tour that took us from Istanbul to Gallipoli, Canakkale, Troy and on to Avylick.

No one was disappointed.

Anzac Cove heralded the beginning of a 6 hour tour of the area in and around Gallipoli.

The tour gave us a great sense of self as we walked around and heard the stories of great commarade by both sides to each other yet the horrific carnage resulting in over 500,000 people being killed and maimed.

On reflection, the stories are best described by many who expeirenced or who have been involved in commemoration ceremonies since. To quote some of these we feel is better than our description:

On head stones:
'The price of peace with honour', 'As the day breaks and shadows flee away, RIP' ' He died for freedom' and 'Sunshine passes shadows fall, love and remembrance outlast all'.

Stories of a Turkish soldier holding a white flag and advancing to a wounded Australian soldier and carrying him to his commrades.

Trenches within metres of one another, during ceasefire both the Turks and Australians having turns to sing songs followed by applause, sharing food and cigarettes.

The deparate attempts to attack resulting in carnage.

The letters of soldiers in the museum read of a vivid description of the terrain yet the fear the soldiers felt.

The sombre experience was a reminder of the futility of war.

As described by our guide around Troy, the Anzac war was yet another Trojan war. It was a fight for access to the Dardenelles. That is of course unless you are of the belief that Troy is about a fight over a beautiful women named Helen.

Troy also opened our eyes to important historic events and archaeologists dream which has exposed 9 different cities on and near the one site.
Oh what a difference a passionate guide makes when visited these sites. He was so good we bought his book on Tory and on Gallipoli, A Turning Point. Of course a visit to Troy is not complete without a photo of the Trojan Horse.

After a night a Canakkale, our bus trip took us down the picturesque west coast of Turkey to Ayvalik where we will take to boat across to Lesbos today for a surprise party on Sunday.

PS It is official. We are returning home on 19 November arriving 1430!!!!!!

Istanbul ıs Constantınople

After a days sunshine in Istanbul and the end of Ramadam, Istanbul turned on some wet and cold weather which didn't interfere at all with our sightseeing but did tempt us in to buying a leather jacket (Paul) and a long sleeve T-shirt for Robby.

Our hotel was well located on the edge of the Marmara Sea in the old city of Sultanahmet and just around the corner from the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia and the Basiclica Cistern. What a spot!

We arrived the last day of Ramadam and the beginning of Bayram which for many of us does not mean a lot but here in Istanbul, it is a time to eat up big, time with the family, loads of free sweets and restaurants full of beautiful aromas, turkish music, happy people offering special deals on everything from carpets to leather coats, ceremics or a meal in a restaurnat.. The Grand Bizarre closed for 3 days.

Mosques are prolific and their grey/blue colour provide a changing vista as the sun or clouds or rain cover the atmosphere. The singing of the muftis or other significant religious head provided hourly echoes of prayer across the city.

The population of this city is the same as that of Australia. It is huge.

We were delighted when friends Ron and Cheryl, who are currently living in the United Arab Emerites, joined us for the weekend. The exchange of adventures and experiences filled the air over a very good bottle of red and white wine that Ron happened to pick up on his way over. And, as the sun set and the Blue Mosque lit up it really reminded us that we are in such a unique, beautiful and different city. The next two days were spent visiting the major attractions, eating extravagently including sampling the taste sensations of the beautiful sweets. The final night of their stay we celebrated in style at one of the worlds oldest towers called Galata Tower and twere entertained for 3 hours non stop by belly dancers, oriental dancers, musicians a very enetertaining singer and was provided with a delicious international meal and free drinks. Ron and Cheryl were stars as they represented Australia in a very good version of belly dancing. Paul's impersonation of a bull as the Spanish people danced to viva espanola and waved the table napkin as the cape to invite the bull was very funny.

It's been great to meet friends again and with Cheryl in her new leather jacket we bid them farewell as they returned to their new home in the UAE.

We decided that we hadn't done Istanbul justice so we spent an additional two days enjoying the Spice Markets, the Grand Bizzare, art galleries and a cruise up the Bosphorus - viewing both the European and Asian side of Istanbul. It is a grand city.

Turkey

From the Ancient Wonder of the Collosus of Rhodes to the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus in Bodrum and The Temple of Artimis near Ephesus in Turkey one would think we should be writing a story on the mysteries, myths and legends of these historical skeletons. Well we're not 'cause we don't know a great deal!

Arrived in Turkey without a map or a travel guide but new we wanted to go to Butterfly Valley, Ephesus and Istanbul. The boat trip from Rhodes to Marmaris took less then an hour and we new we had to make some pretty quick decisions about whether to travel clockwise or anticlockwise around Turkey. A purchase of a travel book, a morning drink and a ponder of the book and we were headed on one the very and efficient and reliable bus services, to a place called Fethye - near Butterfly Valley. It didn't take us long to find a basic hotel and book a day's cruise to our destination. To get to Butterfly Valley requires entry by boat, or if much more adventurous then us, walk, climb slip, slide down very rugged gorges. It is quite a pretty place with the backdrop of these amazing mountain gorges but to our initial disappointment we only had a 40 minute stop here. However, we soon learned that unless you were a hippy and/or loved living under some very primitive coverings or were carrying your own tent then, apart from a walk to the escarpment to a trinkling waterfall and a swim, 40 mins was ample. The rest of the cruise took us to islands of ancient ruins and pristine (apart from rubbish left by tourists) islands off the south coast of Turkey to swim - sometimes in thermal streams - wander around the surrounds until the boat whistled us back on board. And so, we had done Butterfly Valley.

A detailed map in hand (George, your map of Turkey is back on Lesbos) we new that Turkey has much more to offer than the 2 weeks we had allowed so, again we made a choice to be by the seaside as much as possible so now headed clockwise. Firstly to a thriving tourist/boating harbour of Bodrum. We seem to be very attracted to places with harbours. The sailing boats here are much bigger and grander than anywhere else we have been. They were moored 2 and 3 abreast and the harbour full. This time of the year there are not nearly as many tourists and most of the boats are anchored endeavouring to get the 'odd' tourist before winter calls.

We know we are in Turkey because we are having tea instead of coffee (haven't seen hide nor hair of a Turkish Coffee yet), breakfast at our hotels consist of a pile of sweet olives, sliced cucumber, sliced tomato and a boiled egg (cooked to perfection), fresh crusty bread and tea. A pleasant change and appealing for the first couple of days! The shops are a riot of colour with many displaying garlands of red chilly, turkish carpets multiplying before our very eyes, and the drule? enducing shops full of turkish delights and pistacio baclava. Turkish baths are in every town.

Of course the food presents us with a new menu from which to choose a finely kneaded pide, doner kebabs to die for and lamb casseroles and vegetables that provide a new taste sensation.

Our onward journey took us to Selcuk (pronounced Sellchook) to visit Ephesus an incredibly beautiful ruined city built around 1000 BC.

Selcuk was also a good place to celebrate Robby's birthday Turkish style. The birthday is probably more interesting than Ephesus so let me give you details. Breakfast - vegemite and toast - a real treat after over 6 months with just a smidgen, as well as a champagne that Paul had lugged from Greece.This was followed by a 2-3 hour wander around Ephesus and a visit to a carpet factory and topped off with a Gozleme for lunch. Siesta then gave us enough energy to visit St Pauls ruined Basilica and to see the final home of the Virgin Mary. A final historic treat was visiting the one column and few marble rocks of the Temple of Artemis. All this before a Turkish Bath.

Wonder how many of you have had this experience? Just like in the story books and pictures of the old turkish baths this presented us with the magic that is Turkey. The totally marbled room was flanked by brass taps and small marble water troughs. The people sat or layed on marble in their turkish bath towels, just sweating it out and occasionally douced themselves with cooler water for relieving the intensity of the heat. This was followed by a defoliation scrub, a lather wash and then a firm massage.

We felt on top of the world and ready for birthday dinner but half-way through, we almost fell asleep in our stuffed vegetables and stew. Not even a nightcap was needed for sleeping.

So thanks to everyone who sent texts, emails and messages of good wishes. It was really appreciated at this distance.

The next day, flew from Izmir to Istanbul.

Will include pictures when on faster computer.

Slipping across to Santorini

We new our friends Vic and Vicki were travelling to Santorini at some stage but not sure when so a quick text and within moments we new exactly when and it fitted perfectly with our plans.

We needed to wait around in Crete for a few more days whilst, thanks to George and Debbie, our new cards were sent from Australia. So, with Santorini only 2 hours by fast boat we thought what a great idea, a different Greek island and to catch up with friends again.

The trip we initially booked was cancelled on the morning due to bad seas. However, within an hour we were on another catamaran mono-hulling as we crossed the swollen seas. Within record time we reached Santorini to the welcome of Vic and Vcki with sign in hand in case they didn't recognise us.

What is it that when we meet up with friends it is time for converstion, eating and drinking - I guess we are social animals. By 2 pm we were happily sampling an exotic Greek mezze and sipping cocktails. It was also our friend Murray's 50th birthday back home so with Vic's wonderful technical skills and computer we skyped him to wish him those things that you say when someone reaches 50 and you have had a drink or two. Not sure that he enjoyed the contact as much as we did given our state and the fact we had woken him but we all tried chatting with him and consoling him with great outbursts of laughter and frivolity. (On rereading this, it doesn't sound nearly as funny as it was at the time but I guess we have all had these moments.)

After all that, an afternoon siesta was in store before more eating and drinking. Tales of travel could keep the four of us excitedly recalling the joys that preceded us all.

Vic and Vicki spoilt us by booking 1st class accommodation for us at the Sea Breeze on Kamari Beach. Perfect location, right on the beach with the esplande flanked by restaurants both on the beach and across the pedestrian road (Terrigal could learn a lot from this - we think).

George our hotel host was also a restaurnateur and with Baked Lamb in a Paper Bag and Greek salad, we all waddled back to our room for an ouzo nightcap and to sleep off the day and the excitement of birthdays and another reunion. Sounds totally indugent and it was!

The next day Vic and Vicki had organised a hire car to see the island. Vic, who most of you know is a very adaptable, confident, multitasked and obliging person and a bloody good driver to boot, wound us through the narrow zig zag road to the top of one of the mountains to Old Thera which I would love to tell you more about but, none of us had done our homework - even Vic conceded he need his guide certificate for Thera! It was old and interesting and was once a civilisation, that was, before the 1600 or 1700 BC volcana. Archeologists have found this ancient village but no remains of human life. People didn't return to Santorini until 800 years after the volcano- that's the extent of our knowledge.

Next we weaved our way through the streets of Oia dodging the colourful and gold studded groups from the numerous cruise ships anchored just off the shore. We wondered what it would be like to be tagged with a number and following a guide with some crazy object hanging from stick. Who knows, when we are a little older (or may be a good bit older) it might be our preference? In fact Pavlos has suggested it is on the books for his 80th.

After taking in aspects from all angles of the compass, we finally found a cosy hotel - The Enigma - perched on the side of Fira and with hand clutched around another cocktail, we watched the sunset ease its way into the sea.

And so, again we have shared a wonderful few hours with our friends and as we bidded them farewell and the taxi disappeared, we packed our bags and headed back to Fira for some serious tourist perving and to wait for our boat back to Crete.

The 5:30 pm departure left at 8:30 and the 2 hr crossing ended up being 3 hours without airconditioning and with rough seas. I'll say no more about that catamaran trip!

Tonight we head to Rhodes (by plane) for a day or so before heading to Turkey.

You might notice we have a new camera so photos are again appearing on our blog. Also, thanks to everyone that keep us in touch (Fellie you really do keep us up to date with back home and whilst you're not here physically we feel you are) by comments, texts or emails it has helped us from not getting too travel weary or homesick.

Crete - another side of Greek Life

Change in plans meant we spent 8 days on Crete. Interestingly this is the Greek Island that determines the southern border of Europe. Skirted by the Aegean in the north and the Libyan Sea in the south it is one of the larger greek islands but has a slightly different Greek flavour in its cuisine which provided us with new taste sensations that included roasted, stifado - veal, cuttlefish, snails and enjoyed (or not) the taste of raki and some very good white wines.

Our mode of transport for the adventure of Crete was to hire a yellow Chevrolet Matiz car. What a great move! We followed the roads which crisscrossed this island. The huge moutain ranges meant that on one side, we could almost be blown off the road by the strong winds, the scenery of stark white poxy limestone rock resembling snow in the distance and ancient ruins close up; through huge gorges and past mysterious caves and then crossing the mountain range into calmness and fertile fields of citrus trees, grapevines and ordered olive groves that looked like a supurb patchwork across the mountainside into the valleys.

The road maps we obtained lead us on some deadend roads, into villages that didn't exist on the map and up narrow streets that came to such a narrow point we needed to reverse our way out. Despite one or two minor rifts (or misunderstandings) these diversions lead us to backstreet experiences of local people carrying out their daily activities. (Robby is still a little bemused at the fact that it is the men that seem to sit around and drink coffee - not the women.) This holiday, or our current way of life, brings the joy of not having to be at a particular place at a given time as we only book our accommodation when we get to wherever we are going and most of the time we don't know where that is until we get there!

The beauty of Crete is not only in its natural environment but along every stretch of road there are signs to ancient monestries where we were transfixed by the ancient icons; archeological sites which date back to the Minoans of 2000 BC - we walked in their footsteps, visited their palaces (Knossos); learned more about the myths and wondered and pretended to be part of their mystery.

The weather and beaches surprised and pleased us with the water temperature around 21 degrees (eat your heart out the swim group) with each days temperature ranging from min 20 to max 35. September is definitely the time of the year to come to Crete, not to mention the cheap accommodation.

Thanks to Deb and Geroge, all our replacement cards are on their way to Crete so whilst we mark time for them to arrive we decided to visit Santorini (just 2 hrs from Crete - Heralkion).

Rome - Vespars, Smart Cars and Chariots

So we didn't make it to Sicily or the other islands. Instead, as we cruised across the Adriatic from Croatia to Italy, we decided on a short trip to Rome and then take in Crete.
With 3 days in Rome you can walk many kilometres and take in historic sites at every corner, laneway or in the middle of the streets.
The hop on, hop off bus meant we could see a number of sites in one day. However, after spending at least half day at the Vatican, the museum, Sistene Chapel and St Peters Basilica and Square, it was almost an overload so, instead of hoping on and off again we simply walked to the Spanish Steps (rested our weary bones) and Trevi Fountain (made a wish). Icecreams, pizzas and water sustained us throughout the day.
Another day, we spent around the Roman Forum and the Colisseum. The grandeur and yet blood-thirsty past of the Colosseum intrigued us so a tour gave us much more information together with reading some history of it has shed some light on the spectaclulars including the thousands of animals that were mutilated and killed, the sadistic ways of killing human beings - supposed criminals and the 'sport' of the gladiators - all in the name of an emporor, king or other dominant and powerful leader. The book called The Colosseum shed some factual, controversial and humorous slants to the tall tales that exist about the Coleseum.
We had two evening meals in the one restaurant just near our hotel. Why, well this middle-aged lady with this crazy little restaurant full of trinkets and stuffed toys was recommended to us. The meals were truly home cooked by her mother. The veal and pasta filled and exceeded our appetites, her wine was cheap and once more on both occasions she gave us a free bottle of wine as we left. And this is in Rome!
So, with a day just strolling around Rome's amazing artworks and prestigous shops and with our newly acquired emergency credit card we then flew to Crete.

Meeting friends in Dubrovnik

Smiles from ear to ear greeted us as the hull of the boat Marco Polo lowered and our friends Vic and Vicki disembarked. Robby and Paul were equally thrilled waving furiously and shouting greetings through the fence.
Difficult to listen to one another as the excitement resulted in each of us talking at the same time and no one listening.
The walled city was our sanctuary as we wheeled V&Vs luggage through the medieval labyrinth of Dubrovnik. Wandering over the polished cobblestones reflected the joy of seeing our 'old' friends.
Reached our apartment, full of old world charm. Three storeys of steps (poor V's knee) had us opening the thick wooden door to the welcome of our Croatian hosts who treated us to slivervitch?, Brandy and home made wine. Rosey cheeks abound, we dropped off luggage and headed down stairs to the smells of cuisines and a celebration dinner.
Excitement has settled and we can now hear one another. Breakfast with a shot of good coffee and the boys a beer. The people traffic is getting busy but we seem oblivious to it as our attention is with one another.
Two tropical-like thunderstorms in the afternoon had us heading for early cocktails. A daiquiri, martini and black Russians put us in the mood for a snooze.
This was such a short time together as Robby and Paul, tonight, are on their way to Italy. A farewell dinner, loads of Vicki’s photos and we bid farewell to a perfect 30hr reunion.

Sailing the Dalmation

Bow Wow, 101 + islands Things here are not just black and white. As we travel through the islands spotted along the southern Dalmation Coast, on M/V Otac Nikola we pinch ourselves to remind us we are fulfilling a dream to sail (or motor) around these islands in the Adriatic and part of Croatia.
How lucky we are? So desparately wanted to get on board one of those cruise boats sitting in the harbour in Dubrovnik (that all the rich people get on) but hey, how can we make our budget stretch. Well you never know until you ask. A very friendly Captain was a few passengers short and, provided we were prepared to take a porthole cabin, it was ours for 7 days, full board and at a cost that with a stretch of our budget we were able to accept.
The dynamics of the 17 passengers onboard followed the usual group forming profile. However, with Croations, Germans, an Italian, English and Australians, there was an immediate segragation as a result of the language barriers. However, the barriers are only temporary as body gestures, grins arm or head shakes seem to be universal and add a new dimension to communicating.
So what is it about the Dalmation Coast? Our cruise is in the Southern part of the Dalmation Coast. Beginning in Dubrovnik. Each day we spend from 3-4 hours chugging along, one day with a sail, to quaint little nooks or coves and anchor for a swim and each night a different harbour. Usually moored in the harbour of a major town on the islands. The harbours always busy with sailing boats or cruise ships and a hive of activity both onboard and onshore. Some evenings, especially around the new moon, the party activity is much louder and more intense than others. The rest of the time the busyness of cocktail bars, restaurants and the usual sourvenir shopping brings colour and a buzz that is a holiday port.
The islands of Miljet, Korciula (twice), Hvar, Sipan and Lapud were our treats. Fortunately, it is now low season and that brings with it less people (can't imagine what full season would be like), and, I guess, fewer boats although, to us the harbour looked crowded.
Full board. Well, it is perhaps good that we are only here for 7 days. The kilo or two we lost since leaving Greece has now returned, plus more. Lunch and dinner are both 3 courses of freshly cooked local cuisine with choices from hearty stews and potatoes to cabbage and spinach mix with fish or fresh seafood risotto, anchovies, octopus, pork, chipalattas, always with soup, always with salad and followed by such treats as apple struddle - straight from the kitchen, orange icecream with chocolate sauce or simply some fresh fruit.
Once arriving at our ports, passengers head in separate directions but the sight of a familiar face in the town brings a smile and greeting as friendships grow. We take time out to climb castles, visit prehistoric caves, walk the narrow streets, climb towers, visit Marco Polos home, shop or, sit and have a cuppaccino or cocktail. This type of holiday we could definitely have more of.
Time seemed to pass far too quickly through a bit of chatting, reading, reflection and contemplation and before you know it, it would be time for another meal. There are of course the usual antics that Aussie boys get up to like Paul and Kim performing death defying acts from the highest deck of the boat into the crystal clear waters of the Adriatic - practicing their triple sommersaults; hiring a 5 hp dinghy and defying the strong winds to reach a nearby island for further swimming. Climbing to a cave to feel the ambience of where stoneage objects were found, climbing to the top of the hill to a 15 century castle or simply sunbaking on the deck.
Sometimes the chill in the breezes means retreating to the back of the boat to more protected areas or heading to our cabin for a siesta. So, life is good.
A text message late in the evening brings our senses back to our friends at North Avoca. Our dear friend Geoff has died and the sense of wanting to be close to our friends back home or simply making contact wih them is great. We think this is because of the great connection, support and love of our special NASG has that when saddness like this is present, strength is provided in that very support and connection they provide.
And so, we spend some time talking to each other about the joy, the laughs, the good times that our friend Geoff brought to us and how our sympathy goes to Gill and to Melanie and Christie. Next day, our boat is moored, a message from Debbie and Fellie link us back home.
The clarity and depth of the water gives time to meditate and think of friends back home. We dive in the water and think of our good fortune of having beautiful friends.
And so, after 7 days Otac Nikolas returned to Dubrovnik. At the last lunch there was a buzz but disappointment struck us when we found that our camera, in its case and with Robbys credit and cash cards had been stolen. Another adventure to the Police Station to get a report.
Our first port of call in Croatia was in the north - that was just a few days before joining the cruise. A place called Rijeka in northern Croatia. A bus change and we were on our way to the island Krk to Baska. Then onto Rab for a night before heading to Split and onto Dubrovonik. The coastline journey with shaggy rock edges that in the diistance look like sandy beaches, turquoise inlets, forested hills, lakes and villages. One of the most picturesque bus rides we have had, hugging the coast line of Croatia.
Dubrovnik's old city was a reminder that less than 15 years ago, this place was shattered by war. Now with much determination and effort to restore the old, it is a charming walled city full of tourists, restaurants, housing and activity.
Next we were heading to Italy but a text message from our friends Vic and Vicki who were arriving in Dubrovnik in 3 days meant we changed our plans to spend an evening with them. To fill in our time until they arrived we decided to head to Bosnia - Mostar and Sarejavo for a couple of days. We haven't been disappointed. Mostar, which was shelled and bombed, still has visible signs of the destruction. The 'famous' bridge which was bombed during the war and now rebuilt was a highlight. It is well known for the locals showing their masculinity by jumping from this 28 mtr bridge to the icy waters of the Rama Neretva River below. We were still with our Aussie friends from the cruise - Kim and Jaclyn so the evening wore on with cocktails and a farewell meal and more drinks. (Robby was a little surprised that Pavlos did not show his masculinity by jumping off the bridge!)
A train ride with many switchbacks, took us through a huge mountain range to Sarejavo. Once there we boarded a tram - one would think a reasonble way to cover a short distance and time was precious. A tram ride without stamped tickets means one is told to 'get off' and forced to contribute to the rebuilding of Sarejavo or go to jail We chose the former. A bit of a shock to our otherwide smooth travels.
Now on bus returning to Dubrovnik to meet up with Vic and Vicki.
No camera, no photos!

Footsteps in Venice

As we wind our way by bus up the mountains beyond Trieste (Italy) to Croatia, on route is a perfect time to reflect on our adventures in Venice.

Arrival

Venice, where the wash of the liner slapped against her thighs and penetrated into the darkest corners of the canals where saints and gargoyles watched the sunrise. Murmur... Phesyphus' wreath tilted in all her opulence of orange and pink to the sound of the bells tolling.

All the movies, pictures and postcards go nowhere near describing the overwhelming and incredible emotions that are associated with not only being in a new place but in a place that has something magical, mystical and truly different.

We trundled with our one trolley bag and small backpack through the alleyways, over bridges following signs to San Marco to our accommodation - an old monastery converted into comfortable rooms. Despite numerous wrong turns or shall we say minor detours, we arrived.

A quick shower and we were on our way to explore Venice. Of course, the major difference that sets it apart from anywhere else is that you walk everywhere, unless of course you wish to catch the ferry boats or a gondola - 'where bodies in elongated coffins float on silvery threads'.

Getting lost is part of the adventure here as eventually one will find a landmark or sign that leads you back to familiarity.

One of the wonderful attractions for both of us was the number of small 'boutique'-like art galleries, which not only exhibit local works but also have collections which might include a Picasso, Kandinsky Chagall or other famous pieces of work. There in front of your very eyes an Andy Warhole. We were also delighted to find that the Biennnale was on so no matter which corner we turned, there would be an amazing contemporary piece of art - video photographic, sculptures, robots, storytelling exhibits from all parts of the world (including Oz). Often the exhibits were in amazing Venetian palaces or other structures of time gone by which definitely contrasted to the exhibit's contemporary tone.

We were of course both captured by the number of shops selling glassware or masks. A reminder that Venice is the city of the masquerade carnivale and of course the home of Venetian glass.

On our first evening we left our monastic retreat with tickets to a concert which provided a resonance of redemption by a stringed orchestra dressed in black. It filled the space of the 16th Century Church. Vivaldi's Four Seasons charged the veiled and impaled sculptures of marble, the purity of death. Each season was projected through the skill of the professional and his violin.

Our second day was spent again, pounding the streets - different areas, the maze of streets all leading to a piazza and of course the 'hundred's of churches which also give a historical slant on art. The Chorus tour (we followed the map) took us from church to church. A siesta was in order before sitting on the edge of the Grande Canal to watch the Venezia Regatta Stoica - a regatta of boats from across time with the crew dressed according to the era. It was a picture that made us pinch ourselves to check we were actually there. The irony of it was that we were sitting next to a Biennale exhibit of a huge 10 metre skull made of aluminum pots, pans and jugs.

Day 3 was our day to buy a 24 hr ticket for any ferry. One thing about Venice is that it is not cheap so a one day ticket allowed us to experience the waterways as well as visit the islands of Murano and Burano. Murano is where the glass blowing takes place. Touters usher one in to their display rooms. No pressure selling once you get there and the display of works from the finery of the delicate chandeliers to the abstract creations of art work were a beautiful sight. The temptation to buy was huge but the difficulty of carrying around a chandelier or a piece of solid glass for the next few months wasn't that appealing. Instead settled for another ring.

Next stop was Burano. Apart from being the lacemaking island, it is also one where the houses are of many different bright colours which of course, after Venice and its subdued hues was a riot in colour.

Venice being our first Italian port of call also meant it was time to try a 'real' pizza and to Pablo's delight - hardly any cheese. Pizza was on the menu every day. We also tasted the fresh pastas and the Venetian specialty of liver.

Day 4 took us through new streets and back to some favorite places. It had rained over night so the freshness took on a different feel. The pigeons still abound in San Marco Square and the tourists following their leader waving flags of different shapes, colours and objects outnumbered the pigeons.

And so, Venice is behind us. Trieste, the last city in Italy before reaching Slovania and then to Croatia welcomed us with more pizza and pasta before a 2 hour bus journey to Rijeka and then the Island of Krk on the Dalmation Coast.

Yassous our beloved Greece

A mix of cypress pines and green olive trees carpet the countryside from mountain to the sea in Corfu - a Greek Is on the west coast of Greece in the Ionian Sea.

Our introduction to this island wasn't as beautiful as described. After a 5 hour bus ride from Thesalloniki and a 2 hour ferry trip to the island we immediately headed north to the area we had been told was the place to stay. Both of us were woken at our stop and slightly dazed from the long trip. All we could hear were English voices and see signs that read 'English Breakfast', Gutbusters Breakfast' 'Steak and Chips' 'English soccer matches live broadcasts tonight!', and most storekeepers had very English accents. Had we landed in the right place or were we simply spoilt by the fact we had been living and breathing Lesbos for so long? It was difficult to spot a Greek let alone find a friendly taverna with squid and sardines.

So, having eventually found some accommodation we set out to make the most of our few days here. It was a perfect opportunity to rent a scooter and head out of this place called Sadiri, at least for a day. And, what a day we had.

Firstly, we weren't satisfied to share a scooter so with two scooters we ventured out beyond the excessive load music and English undertones to explore Corfu island island and of course it offered all the beauty that Greek islands have - villages perched high on the mountain sides, ocean views with islets and blue grottos; snorkelling that provided crystal clear views of the thousands of fish of all varieties; hairbends that challenged our riding skills - some requiring foot on road to help balance the scooter; village signs we couldn't pronounce (Platonos); the Albanian coastline stretching in the distance; sheperds grazing their goats and traditional tavernas with Mythos on tap and tastie tomatoes in the Greek salads.

Bikes were returned after 24 hours with two very exhausted riders but also very satisfied and with the realisation that Corfu and its geography and vegetation is a stark contrast to that of Lesvos. Resting our weary bones we were lulled to sleep by the Karioki Bar across the road to the sour tunes of 'Living Next Door to Alice' and after a hard days ride the song that stuck in Pavlos' mind was Rawhide - it was enough to give you a Rawhide, Jimmy (see you go!).

The next morning we started the day with an English Breakfast! and a very bad cuppaccino before heading back to Corfu city. We are always amused and intrigued by the spontaneous happenings that a trip brings. By bus through some very narrow village streets always offers excitement - a simple reversing of these big buses in the narrow streets because of an oncoming truck brings the heart to the throat.. Further on a car had parked in a narrow street preventing the bus to pass. So, what should the bus driver do? Of course, hand held firmly on horn until a villager reacts. Mama, dressed in black comes from her small cottage with arms waving and shouting ella, ella. She sauantered up the street still yelling but trying to find owner. In meantime, horn still bellowing but to no response. So with some precision manouvering, the bus driver scaled the garden, scraped the reavision mirror and still mama was yelling 'ella'.

Corfu city endeared us with its historic area, galleries, huge bizarres and outdoor restaurants and tavernas. Whilst this was a short stay (3 days) the island does have some very beautiful attractions.

Thessaloniki in northern Greece mainland and the second largest city in Greece, was our first stop after Lesvos. Although suffering from a case of missing our temporary home and arriving on a Sunday when, in Greece, everything is shut (oincluding galleries), we managed to find the harbour walk, an authentic 'sweets' café and a great fish restaurant where we past the time for about 3 hours. The following day was a different story. The 50% sales had hit Thessalonki and we just had to shop - a new outfit for Robby (for Venice) and new Teva sports shoes for Pavlos (to help him walk faster). Thessalonki was simply a connection point on our way to Dalmation Coast.

We are now on an ocean liner having left Corfu this morning at 7 am for Venice. This is a 24 hour journey. We packed food supplies, our cards, dominos and books and have already enjoyed the swimming pool, a few glasses of wine - a very comfortable way to travel. We have reclining seats, no cabins as we are saving our pennies for Venice. Not sure which restaurant we'll go to on board tonights, but plenty to choose from and will certainly uplaod this blog with the onboard facilities.

By the way, we are back to one small wheelie bag and a small backpack. Hoping this will see us through for the next 2 months. The other two suitcases we left on Lesvos and will retrieve on our return.

See you in Venice or soon after. Think it will be a train trip to Split in Croatia going via Trieste, Italy.

Love to everyone.

PS We are blowing you kisses - did you notice?
PSS Internet on board boat was slow. Now in Venice.

Home is on Lesvos

Eight weeks have almost past since we arrived on Lesbos. Our batteries are recharged, our nest is very comfortable but it is time to move on. On 25 August we are boarding a Greek liner and heading to northern Greece to Thessaloniki before onward to Corfu.

The absence of any blog entry is not the result of little to talk about but more about getting into a routine of daily living that has been full of reflections , meditations and local activities. Thanks for all the lovely emails we have received from friends and relatives. Technology really does bring the distance closer.

So what have we been doing the past few weeks? Firstly, we (Pavlos and Robby) fit into the Greek way of life as if we have been here for 50 plus years. Our house here has given us the stability of home yet all things Greek surround us from the time we leave the door. Already we are thinking ‘how can we return to Lesbos next year?’. There are even possibilities of jobs if we so desire! In fact, Pavlos is contemplating a partnership with a fellow Greek which is top secret!!!!! Details will not emerge until such time as it eventuates... So guess as much as you like but hey, nothing will be divulged.

Our host Captain Giorgis returned on Thursday and his hospitality has left us drunk, sleeping even longer hours and visits to unique places only known by the locals. Even the ordering of food results in delights we had never experienced before. On top of all that, Pavlos is getting free cooking lessons. Salting fresh sardines and cooking lamb in retsina. This together with a range of vegetables was one of our dinners. Another day spent about 40 mins collecting sea urchins. After that went to a local taverna where numerous delicacies were ordered and of course a plate of fresh sea urchin accompanied that. Now how many can honestly say they have eaten this delicacy?

It's been wonderful spending so much time here. Most mornings Robby walks and/or swims then Pavlos meets at our favorite café for a Greek coffee or a frappa or fredo cappaccino. (Wonder if Terrigal Surf Club will be able to provide these when we return?) The owner of the coffee shop welcomes us with a ‘kalimari’ (we have picked up a number of Greek words) and we sit with the Greek locals sipping coffee and watching the 'tourists' pass by whilst Pavlos flicks his worry beads. It is always wonderful to return to our house and sit under the pagola of wisteria and grapes and watch the breezes turn over the Aegean as well as the cats preening and stregtching in the sun. At the same time think of the things that we could do, try and plan for the day and by then it is time to think about some lunch. Generally this has been accompanied by a short drive to one of the nearby villages such as Vaforus, Skala Skimanea, Anaxoss, Eftalou or numerous others where a swim in the clear waters precedes a 'light' lunch at a taverna. We are then ready for afternoon siesta. Siesta is an essential part of the day. A sleep from 4 – 6 pm provides us with the energy to keep going until the wee hours of the morning.l

Apart from our chores of caring for the zoo we have also managed two apartments with holiday makers coming and going. We now have other skills we can add to our resumes.

We have also enjoyed the company of our friend Richard from Australia. What we realise is that just having different eyes, ears and passion around provides a new dimension for us. So, thanks to Richard, we became more aware of the 'beautiful' people (especially the Maria's), a sense of adventure to head off to different places each day and to find our favourite taverna, beach or simply a favorite drive. Richard has also been a great cook and of course entertainer.

Our friends Gianni and Eleni (and sister Elly) have added considerably to this place being so much fun. We meet them at their car hire business around 10 pm, have a drink or two before enjoying a light evening meal, a drink or listening to some music.

We wonder what it is that makes Lesbos, Greece such an appealing place to be? Here are a few of the differences… greek coffee made on wood, feta cheese preserved in the hide of a sheep or goat, ouzo – numerous brands are made on this island, olive oil – we certainly know the difference between good and bad olive oil, pebbly beaches – sometimes a pain but the clear waters makes up for it, siestas, tomatoes (best in the world) tavernas… just to name a few.

So on Saturday we are off for the next stage of this sojourn. Having had the chance to read The Pillars of Hercules by Paul Theroux, we were inspired to rethink our adventure and made a joint decision to visit islands within the Mediterranean or their adjoining seas. So, the plan is this, after Corfu, we will catch a boat via Italy to the Dalmation Coast (Croatia). Hopefully set sail for a week or two around the islands. After that another boat to Venice before a train trip to eastern Italy to head to Corsica, Sardinia, Sicily, Malta and then back to Turkey. You see, we have been invited to a surprise party back here on Lesbos and plan to return before heading to Spain for a couple of weeks.

Lesvos, Greece

Dinner at 11 pm and bed at 2 am might seem crazy, but here on Lesvos it is the norm.

It's now over two weeks since we arrived in Greece and it didn't take too long to settle into a more relaxed way of living. After the very cold temperatures of Buenos Aires we reached Greece where the average is around 35 (Murray, not your kind of weather?). That is a very good reason to make the most of evenings and less of daylight.

Athens provided us with the touch of history with a visit to the Acropolis and walking in the footsteps of the ancient philosophers. Stayed with a friend, Brian, not far from the centre of Athens. After two days we then headed to Lesvos in the northern Aegean. (For the Google Earth folk, we are staying in Molyvos. Take a look at this gorgeous village with a castle on top of the hill and a quaint little harbour. We are staying half way between Molyvos and the nearby village of Petra.)

Our home is rather big compared to most places on this island. It also has two apartments attached to it and is on 1-1/2 acres. We are the caretakers. Our chores are minimal yet require regularity. We have the responsibility of feeding - night and morning - 10 cats (I did notice an extra one the other night), a pyschotic dog (so timid it runs away even when you put food out), 7 frogs, and numerous fish. Oh and we also have plants to water but that's not too difficult as there is a watering system on most. (There have also been problems with the sewerage system which has had to be attended to but will not describe it here.)

So, we have settled in very nicely. Paul was lucky enough to join Giogo, the owner of the house, on his rather large fishing boat the day after we arrived. They motored around Lesvos with Turkey on one side and Lesvos on the other to a Gulf where the boat is now in drydock. On the first day our hosts treated us to a wonderful greek meal in a nearby village called Eftalou at one of their favorite tavernas where the sea breeze of the Aegean filtered through the trees and the sea lapped on the pebbled beach. We could see the flickering lights of the villages of Turkey just across the strait. We had our first tastes of the Aegean cuisine of grilled octopus, sardines, aubergine, moussaka, grilled local lamb cheese and meat balls and the obligatory greek salad accompanied with ouzo and wine. It didn't take either of us long to realise we are definitely in another exotic country with different foods, languages and customs and a totally new experience was unfolding.

A week later a friend from the Central Coast, Richard, arrived. It has been great to have him here to share stories and to catch up on the happenings back home. His excitement and enthusiasm for 'anything' Greek is fabulous and we are happy to go along with anything he wants to see or do.

We all booked into a Greek cookery course. How much fun can one have? Eleni, our teacher, welcomed us with a Greek coffee and sweet apricot and then she soon had us picking fresh zucchini flowers from her vegetable garden for one of our dishes. We chopped, peeled, drank ouzo and wine, combined beautiful herbs and cooked, culminating in a real feast of greek lamb casserole, croquettes, aubergines and zucchini, rice pasta lamb and salad accompanied by more wine and ouzo and topped off with fresh watermelon - a traditional accompaniment at this time of the year. Yianni, her husband and Eva her daughter joined us for the meal around 2 pm.

This meal has been the beginning of a very warm friendship. Eleni grew up in Gosford and Yianni likes to dive (this is also a passion of Richards). With much in common, we have spent a number of occasions with them since - drinking, dancing, magging and entertaining. The latter, we cooked up a treat and invited them for dinner after they finished work at 11 pm. There are already plans for more sharing of recipes and tasting the results.

Night life is an important part of the Greek life. Not only because it is hot during the day but also it is a social gathering for people in small villages like Molyvos where most houses don't have outdoor living areas so meeting on the narrow cobblestoned streets, catching up on the days events and watching the passing parade is part of the scene. Eating outdoors is a very big tourist industry for 7 months of the year here. Most of the tourists are from Scandanavian countries, some Italians, Dutch and a few English. Around 10-12 pm when the shops close, the restaurants and tavernas are full. Emissions of food come from the kitchens, voices and music mingle in the crowded Molyvos restaurants. Within arms reach, colourful wooden boats rock in the harbour from a cool seabreeze and clear nights and winking stars make for a magical experience. Hence getting to bed before 2 pm can be sometimes difficult.

(Paul keeps pinching himself 'cause he's not sure it is real). Oh by the way Paul already has his worry beads (although he is still looking for something to worry about) and a big fat Greek ring and looking for some other exotic touches that will remind him of this venture. At this stage he is keeping with his name but Robby has a feeling that Andonis might be in the wind.

Having Richard here has prompted us to explore the island further. We spent a day (well we didn't start until 11 am) taking in small villages - most have a square, almost all have very narrow streets and groups of elderly men drinking coffee and swinging worry beads; a monestary with 'black' madonna; petrified forest; swims at various beaches before reaching Skala Erossos (the place where Sappho, a Greek poet supposedly lived in 400 BC) where we indulged ourselves in a generous helping of Greek cuisine before heading back home. Here on Lesvos, nothing is further than a day trip.

Another day took a drive to the east coast and visited the pottery village of Mantamadas. Unfortunately we had forgotten that most shops close for a long siesta between 1 and 5.30 so will have to go back another day to see the local wares. Another day another beach and to the top of Mt Olympus.

Petri, just 1-1/2 klms from our place is our favorite swimming spot. Mostly the water has been mild and flat so it is great for serious swimming. However for a couple of days it was extremely cold - certainly giving one the chills when you first dive in. Swimming is part of our routine, at least once sometimes 2 or 3 times a day but very little sun baking as the temperatures are far too high. The afternoon (or evening) swim is generally followed by returning home, sitting on the patio, looking across the Aegean with a glass of ouzo or wine and watching the sunset. Before we know it is 9.30 and Paul or Richard attend to a culinary delight. Robby of course compliments them on their creative dishes and fears that the time will come when she might have to head to the kitchen. If one is not feeling like cooking than we head to Molyvos or Petra.

Housesitting is fun (except for attending to the sullage and water systems). We will continue to relax and repeat the activities above for at least another four weeks. We have plans to visit Turkey (only 1-1/2 hrs away) for two or three days and also to visit a nearby island. That is of course if we can get someone to feed the zoo.

So folk, as you endure the cold temperatures of winter in Australia we think of you snuggled up in front of the heaters and feel happy that we can, at least for this year, not have to endure those cold mornings (especially on the train).