Where is Benagalbon?

If you find Malaga on the map on the south coast of Spain and travel east for around 25 kms then there is Benagalbon. Why are we here? We're visiting our friend Inger's sister, Gudrun. Gudrun has lived in Spain for 18 years and it is wonderful to be here with a local who has generously shown us the 'real' Spain. The beautiful countryside with the hillsides scattered with almond, citrus, olive trees. Also mangoes, avocados, vineyards, valleys full of market gardens, and drying beds for some grapes to become raisins. From the mountain top we saw small villages with their whitewashed houses and farmhouses dotted around the mountainside.

A stop off in a village led us through the narrow streets, some tapas and coffee and a local spanish lady beckoning us into her house to see what she has for sale. We walk out with fresh almonds, raisins, mangoes, dried figs and quince jelly. We then wound our way back down a very windy road to the coast.

The next day Gudun accompanied us into Malaga. The main pedestrian street was flanked by Rodin sculptures (a special exhibition), we ordered café con leche and sat outdoors to watch the passing parade. The highlight of the day was a visit to Museum Picasso. Picasso was born in Malaga and his grandson and daughter in law donated an exceptional display of his work to the gallery. We also paid a visit to his house of birth where there were a number of photographs of childhood plus many small sketches and artworks of his as a child.

A drive along the coast gave us a glimpse of the vastness of the Mediterranean and the black sands.

Paul and Robby were so taken by the countryside we decided to take the hire car into the countryside of Andalusia for a couple of days. We weaved our way through cork forests, mountain ranges and by lakes to the district of Ronda (the home of the first modern bull fight for which they are very proud!) and then down to the Costa de Sol. Our introduction to the coast was on dark, there was much traffic on the fourlane highways as well as hundreds of kilometres of townhouses. This is the area, we are told, that many English have bought villas etc for the summer with many migrating here. We managed to get ourselves completely lost after a couple of hours of driving and anxiety levels heightened we decided to bed down at the first available hotel - next to a casino in Marbella. The accommodation was above our normal standard but hey, when one is lost you don't have much choice. And, it is the first time on this trip we have been offered champagne for breakfast.

The next day we woke to the sun rising over the ocean and the mountain range covered in rain clouds. Our trip took us along the Costa del Sol. Back at Benagalbon, Gudrun had organised the 'best' home cookked paella at the local restaurant in the village.

The following morning Gudrun accompanied us to the bus station and bid us a fond farewell and safe travel as we departed for Madrid.

Barcelona - Valencia - Granada

Although we were both feeling a little travel weary, as soon as we hit Barcelona that changed. Spain was to be an indulgence of art and, Barcelona certainly was a fine introduction. With a special Art Ticket to visit 7 galleries we saw 4 of the 7 galleries with two of them specialist galleries of some of our favorite artists. Paul was meditative by the display of Antoni Tapies and for Robby the colour and the whimsical symbols of the art of Joan Miro. On top of these two exhibitions there was the wonderful display and retropspective of Picasso, the Barcelona Contemporary Museum and not having enough time we just have to return to see the Centre for Cultural Contemporary art and the fairy-tale-like structures of Guadi.

That wasn't all Barcelona had to offer. We found just walking along the streets of the Gothic quarters an array of wonderful architecture and myriad of squares with interesting gargoyles and sculptures. The markets - the fruit, vegies, cheeses and proscuito and the artesan markets with hand made jewllery, clothes, jars of jams and olives, as well as hams traditionally cured, pates and pastries to die for.

As we left Barcelona we were happy knowing that we would spend another two or three days before heading home.

So, we then headed for Valencia where we new there was much to see especially around the major Plazas and some modernist architecture. For the first time on this 7 month journey we arrived and was unable to find accommodation. A very friendly taxi driver took us to over 6 hotels without any luck plus phone calls to many pensiones and hostels left us homeless for an evening. The next best thing was to get on a train and head to our next destination Granada. We were lucky. The train didn't leave until 1 am which gave us 8 hours to see Valencia. The weather had turned quite cold and wet so the first stop was another art gallery with paintings by Valequez, Goya, El Greco and Van Dyke. We then walked and walked the inner streets of Valencia until we had had enough, found a bar then moved on to a paella café (Valencia is the home of paellas) and sat until it was almost time to catch the train. We arrived in Granada at 9:30 am.

Granada offered us the beauty of Alhambra. The only tickets we could get were to the gardens and to Generalife gardens. What a treat this was with the acres of very manicured hedges and colourful flowers and waterfuls. 4 hours walk went by without noticing. Today we are moving onto Malaga and looking forward to meeting up with a friend Gudrun.

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Lesbos for Three Days

Our excitement was high as we reached the shores of Lesbos in the ferry from Turkey. It was a strange feeling returning to the place we had become so familiar with and part of for 2 months in the summer. We were returning for our hosts surprise 70th birthday and to reaquaint ourselves with the surrounds in a different sort of way. This time we stayed in an apartment high on the hill of Molyvos, near the castle and only accessible by walking through the steep and cobble stepped streets. The front balcony demanded a view over the terracota roofs to the island in the distance. This in many ways was quite a contrast to our home of 2 months on an acreage with all the cats and an uninterrupted view to the Aegean.

Another stark differences was the absence of tourists. Literally no one around except the odd gathering of Greek men having coffee in the handful of coffee places and restaurant still open. The dogs which seemed to have taken over the village outnumbered the cats, although, when we opened our doors to the balcony we were greeted by a 'desparate' meeow trying to take refuge from the cold and wet.

The weather was the starkest of contrasts. For our previous 2 months in summer we had only seen blue skies. Not even a whisper of cloud. This time, the sky was enveloping us with its deep greys to black skies, the rumblings of thunder, the skuds of rain, the intermitent strong winds and the chill.

The harbour of Molyvos was quiet, except for the fishing boats which had anchored to seek shelter from what was locally considered strong winds and bad weather. No restaurants open - well on the last day we found one to enjoy a final fresh Greek squid and a Greek salad.

We love Lesbos and even more in the summer time.

Our friends Gianni and Eleni who were busy with their car rental business 16 hours a day in the summer were now busy preparing for the olive season. Laying nets etc as well as building a house. A welcoming Greek coffee from them and before long the four of us were out snail hunting. There was a pause in the rain and the hills were alive with the locals collecting snails. Huge hard-shelled juicy looking characters (the snails) emerge after the first rains. This is a sign that the season has changed, and the snails are a tasty treat. Within an hour the four of us had collected around 200 of these cute little delights and Eleni had a special recipe that would delight the family after a few days of preparation. Instead, they treated us to a wonderful homecooked dinner.

And then there was the party. We new this was going to be big when Melinda, the No.1 daughter started talking about it back in June. The first night we arrived we greeted a couple from Oaxaco,Mexico as they arrived at the castle and we escorted them to the same residence as ours. Michele and George instantly became our new friends as we spent many hours talking, eating, drinking and sharing stories. The following day some more Aussies and people from London, America, Thailand, Zanzibar arrived.

The party was a total surprise. As Jenifer enetered the hotel dining room with her 5 daughters and husband Giorgo, she was greeted by over 100 guests from all corners of the world. One could imagine how overcome she was and the surprise and thrill showed in her actions and comprehension that this was her birthday. And so the party continued until the wee hours of the morning. Fine food, wine, ouzo, water, singing, dancing - greek and modern, fireworks, 70 lanterns lit and rose to the skies. The weather had cleared and the sight of these lanterns rising higher and higher was like something from a fairytale.

The evening surprise was not the end of the party. The following day all long distant travellers were invited back to 'our' home on the hill for another birthday cake and more food. The atmosphere was much more subdued but equally exciting. There was no sign of our dog Roger or the numerous cats we had cared for over the 2 months in summer.

And so our time in Lesbos was over and with an early flight to Athens (we spent the day roaming the streets and a last vista of the Acropolis) we are now in Barcelona.

Gallipoli and Troy

'If you go to Turkey any Australian or New Zealander must see Gallipoli.' words we had heard many times so, despite Robby's reluctance Gallipoli was on our way back down the coast (we are now going anticlockwise). We hopped on a tour that took us from Istanbul to Gallipoli, Canakkale, Troy and on to Avylick.

No one was disappointed.

Anzac Cove heralded the beginning of a 6 hour tour of the area in and around Gallipoli.

The tour gave us a great sense of self as we walked around and heard the stories of great commarade by both sides to each other yet the horrific carnage resulting in over 500,000 people being killed and maimed.

On reflection, the stories are best described by many who expeirenced or who have been involved in commemoration ceremonies since. To quote some of these we feel is better than our description:

On head stones:
'The price of peace with honour', 'As the day breaks and shadows flee away, RIP' ' He died for freedom' and 'Sunshine passes shadows fall, love and remembrance outlast all'.

Stories of a Turkish soldier holding a white flag and advancing to a wounded Australian soldier and carrying him to his commrades.

Trenches within metres of one another, during ceasefire both the Turks and Australians having turns to sing songs followed by applause, sharing food and cigarettes.

The deparate attempts to attack resulting in carnage.

The letters of soldiers in the museum read of a vivid description of the terrain yet the fear the soldiers felt.

The sombre experience was a reminder of the futility of war.

As described by our guide around Troy, the Anzac war was yet another Trojan war. It was a fight for access to the Dardenelles. That is of course unless you are of the belief that Troy is about a fight over a beautiful women named Helen.

Troy also opened our eyes to important historic events and archaeologists dream which has exposed 9 different cities on and near the one site.
Oh what a difference a passionate guide makes when visited these sites. He was so good we bought his book on Tory and on Gallipoli, A Turning Point. Of course a visit to Troy is not complete without a photo of the Trojan Horse.

After a night a Canakkale, our bus trip took us down the picturesque west coast of Turkey to Ayvalik where we will take to boat across to Lesbos today for a surprise party on Sunday.

PS It is official. We are returning home on 19 November arriving 1430!!!!!!

Istanbul ıs Constantınople

After a days sunshine in Istanbul and the end of Ramadam, Istanbul turned on some wet and cold weather which didn't interfere at all with our sightseeing but did tempt us in to buying a leather jacket (Paul) and a long sleeve T-shirt for Robby.

Our hotel was well located on the edge of the Marmara Sea in the old city of Sultanahmet and just around the corner from the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia and the Basiclica Cistern. What a spot!

We arrived the last day of Ramadam and the beginning of Bayram which for many of us does not mean a lot but here in Istanbul, it is a time to eat up big, time with the family, loads of free sweets and restaurants full of beautiful aromas, turkish music, happy people offering special deals on everything from carpets to leather coats, ceremics or a meal in a restaurnat.. The Grand Bizarre closed for 3 days.

Mosques are prolific and their grey/blue colour provide a changing vista as the sun or clouds or rain cover the atmosphere. The singing of the muftis or other significant religious head provided hourly echoes of prayer across the city.

The population of this city is the same as that of Australia. It is huge.

We were delighted when friends Ron and Cheryl, who are currently living in the United Arab Emerites, joined us for the weekend. The exchange of adventures and experiences filled the air over a very good bottle of red and white wine that Ron happened to pick up on his way over. And, as the sun set and the Blue Mosque lit up it really reminded us that we are in such a unique, beautiful and different city. The next two days were spent visiting the major attractions, eating extravagently including sampling the taste sensations of the beautiful sweets. The final night of their stay we celebrated in style at one of the worlds oldest towers called Galata Tower and twere entertained for 3 hours non stop by belly dancers, oriental dancers, musicians a very enetertaining singer and was provided with a delicious international meal and free drinks. Ron and Cheryl were stars as they represented Australia in a very good version of belly dancing. Paul's impersonation of a bull as the Spanish people danced to viva espanola and waved the table napkin as the cape to invite the bull was very funny.

It's been great to meet friends again and with Cheryl in her new leather jacket we bid them farewell as they returned to their new home in the UAE.

We decided that we hadn't done Istanbul justice so we spent an additional two days enjoying the Spice Markets, the Grand Bizzare, art galleries and a cruise up the Bosphorus - viewing both the European and Asian side of Istanbul. It is a grand city.

Turkey

From the Ancient Wonder of the Collosus of Rhodes to the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus in Bodrum and The Temple of Artimis near Ephesus in Turkey one would think we should be writing a story on the mysteries, myths and legends of these historical skeletons. Well we're not 'cause we don't know a great deal!

Arrived in Turkey without a map or a travel guide but new we wanted to go to Butterfly Valley, Ephesus and Istanbul. The boat trip from Rhodes to Marmaris took less then an hour and we new we had to make some pretty quick decisions about whether to travel clockwise or anticlockwise around Turkey. A purchase of a travel book, a morning drink and a ponder of the book and we were headed on one the very and efficient and reliable bus services, to a place called Fethye - near Butterfly Valley. It didn't take us long to find a basic hotel and book a day's cruise to our destination. To get to Butterfly Valley requires entry by boat, or if much more adventurous then us, walk, climb slip, slide down very rugged gorges. It is quite a pretty place with the backdrop of these amazing mountain gorges but to our initial disappointment we only had a 40 minute stop here. However, we soon learned that unless you were a hippy and/or loved living under some very primitive coverings or were carrying your own tent then, apart from a walk to the escarpment to a trinkling waterfall and a swim, 40 mins was ample. The rest of the cruise took us to islands of ancient ruins and pristine (apart from rubbish left by tourists) islands off the south coast of Turkey to swim - sometimes in thermal streams - wander around the surrounds until the boat whistled us back on board. And so, we had done Butterfly Valley.

A detailed map in hand (George, your map of Turkey is back on Lesbos) we new that Turkey has much more to offer than the 2 weeks we had allowed so, again we made a choice to be by the seaside as much as possible so now headed clockwise. Firstly to a thriving tourist/boating harbour of Bodrum. We seem to be very attracted to places with harbours. The sailing boats here are much bigger and grander than anywhere else we have been. They were moored 2 and 3 abreast and the harbour full. This time of the year there are not nearly as many tourists and most of the boats are anchored endeavouring to get the 'odd' tourist before winter calls.

We know we are in Turkey because we are having tea instead of coffee (haven't seen hide nor hair of a Turkish Coffee yet), breakfast at our hotels consist of a pile of sweet olives, sliced cucumber, sliced tomato and a boiled egg (cooked to perfection), fresh crusty bread and tea. A pleasant change and appealing for the first couple of days! The shops are a riot of colour with many displaying garlands of red chilly, turkish carpets multiplying before our very eyes, and the drule? enducing shops full of turkish delights and pistacio baclava. Turkish baths are in every town.

Of course the food presents us with a new menu from which to choose a finely kneaded pide, doner kebabs to die for and lamb casseroles and vegetables that provide a new taste sensation.

Our onward journey took us to Selcuk (pronounced Sellchook) to visit Ephesus an incredibly beautiful ruined city built around 1000 BC.

Selcuk was also a good place to celebrate Robby's birthday Turkish style. The birthday is probably more interesting than Ephesus so let me give you details. Breakfast - vegemite and toast - a real treat after over 6 months with just a smidgen, as well as a champagne that Paul had lugged from Greece.This was followed by a 2-3 hour wander around Ephesus and a visit to a carpet factory and topped off with a Gozleme for lunch. Siesta then gave us enough energy to visit St Pauls ruined Basilica and to see the final home of the Virgin Mary. A final historic treat was visiting the one column and few marble rocks of the Temple of Artemis. All this before a Turkish Bath.

Wonder how many of you have had this experience? Just like in the story books and pictures of the old turkish baths this presented us with the magic that is Turkey. The totally marbled room was flanked by brass taps and small marble water troughs. The people sat or layed on marble in their turkish bath towels, just sweating it out and occasionally douced themselves with cooler water for relieving the intensity of the heat. This was followed by a defoliation scrub, a lather wash and then a firm massage.

We felt on top of the world and ready for birthday dinner but half-way through, we almost fell asleep in our stuffed vegetables and stew. Not even a nightcap was needed for sleeping.

So thanks to everyone who sent texts, emails and messages of good wishes. It was really appreciated at this distance.

The next day, flew from Izmir to Istanbul.

Will include pictures when on faster computer.