Lesbos for Three Days

Our excitement was high as we reached the shores of Lesbos in the ferry from Turkey. It was a strange feeling returning to the place we had become so familiar with and part of for 2 months in the summer. We were returning for our hosts surprise 70th birthday and to reaquaint ourselves with the surrounds in a different sort of way. This time we stayed in an apartment high on the hill of Molyvos, near the castle and only accessible by walking through the steep and cobble stepped streets. The front balcony demanded a view over the terracota roofs to the island in the distance. This in many ways was quite a contrast to our home of 2 months on an acreage with all the cats and an uninterrupted view to the Aegean.

Another stark differences was the absence of tourists. Literally no one around except the odd gathering of Greek men having coffee in the handful of coffee places and restaurant still open. The dogs which seemed to have taken over the village outnumbered the cats, although, when we opened our doors to the balcony we were greeted by a 'desparate' meeow trying to take refuge from the cold and wet.

The weather was the starkest of contrasts. For our previous 2 months in summer we had only seen blue skies. Not even a whisper of cloud. This time, the sky was enveloping us with its deep greys to black skies, the rumblings of thunder, the skuds of rain, the intermitent strong winds and the chill.

The harbour of Molyvos was quiet, except for the fishing boats which had anchored to seek shelter from what was locally considered strong winds and bad weather. No restaurants open - well on the last day we found one to enjoy a final fresh Greek squid and a Greek salad.

We love Lesbos and even more in the summer time.

Our friends Gianni and Eleni who were busy with their car rental business 16 hours a day in the summer were now busy preparing for the olive season. Laying nets etc as well as building a house. A welcoming Greek coffee from them and before long the four of us were out snail hunting. There was a pause in the rain and the hills were alive with the locals collecting snails. Huge hard-shelled juicy looking characters (the snails) emerge after the first rains. This is a sign that the season has changed, and the snails are a tasty treat. Within an hour the four of us had collected around 200 of these cute little delights and Eleni had a special recipe that would delight the family after a few days of preparation. Instead, they treated us to a wonderful homecooked dinner.

And then there was the party. We new this was going to be big when Melinda, the No.1 daughter started talking about it back in June. The first night we arrived we greeted a couple from Oaxaco,Mexico as they arrived at the castle and we escorted them to the same residence as ours. Michele and George instantly became our new friends as we spent many hours talking, eating, drinking and sharing stories. The following day some more Aussies and people from London, America, Thailand, Zanzibar arrived.

The party was a total surprise. As Jenifer enetered the hotel dining room with her 5 daughters and husband Giorgo, she was greeted by over 100 guests from all corners of the world. One could imagine how overcome she was and the surprise and thrill showed in her actions and comprehension that this was her birthday. And so the party continued until the wee hours of the morning. Fine food, wine, ouzo, water, singing, dancing - greek and modern, fireworks, 70 lanterns lit and rose to the skies. The weather had cleared and the sight of these lanterns rising higher and higher was like something from a fairytale.

The evening surprise was not the end of the party. The following day all long distant travellers were invited back to 'our' home on the hill for another birthday cake and more food. The atmosphere was much more subdued but equally exciting. There was no sign of our dog Roger or the numerous cats we had cared for over the 2 months in summer.

And so our time in Lesbos was over and with an early flight to Athens (we spent the day roaming the streets and a last vista of the Acropolis) we are now in Barcelona.

Gallipoli and Troy

'If you go to Turkey any Australian or New Zealander must see Gallipoli.' words we had heard many times so, despite Robby's reluctance Gallipoli was on our way back down the coast (we are now going anticlockwise). We hopped on a tour that took us from Istanbul to Gallipoli, Canakkale, Troy and on to Avylick.

No one was disappointed.

Anzac Cove heralded the beginning of a 6 hour tour of the area in and around Gallipoli.

The tour gave us a great sense of self as we walked around and heard the stories of great commarade by both sides to each other yet the horrific carnage resulting in over 500,000 people being killed and maimed.

On reflection, the stories are best described by many who expeirenced or who have been involved in commemoration ceremonies since. To quote some of these we feel is better than our description:

On head stones:
'The price of peace with honour', 'As the day breaks and shadows flee away, RIP' ' He died for freedom' and 'Sunshine passes shadows fall, love and remembrance outlast all'.

Stories of a Turkish soldier holding a white flag and advancing to a wounded Australian soldier and carrying him to his commrades.

Trenches within metres of one another, during ceasefire both the Turks and Australians having turns to sing songs followed by applause, sharing food and cigarettes.

The deparate attempts to attack resulting in carnage.

The letters of soldiers in the museum read of a vivid description of the terrain yet the fear the soldiers felt.

The sombre experience was a reminder of the futility of war.

As described by our guide around Troy, the Anzac war was yet another Trojan war. It was a fight for access to the Dardenelles. That is of course unless you are of the belief that Troy is about a fight over a beautiful women named Helen.

Troy also opened our eyes to important historic events and archaeologists dream which has exposed 9 different cities on and near the one site.
Oh what a difference a passionate guide makes when visited these sites. He was so good we bought his book on Tory and on Gallipoli, A Turning Point. Of course a visit to Troy is not complete without a photo of the Trojan Horse.

After a night a Canakkale, our bus trip took us down the picturesque west coast of Turkey to Ayvalik where we will take to boat across to Lesbos today for a surprise party on Sunday.

PS It is official. We are returning home on 19 November arriving 1430!!!!!!

Istanbul ıs Constantınople

After a days sunshine in Istanbul and the end of Ramadam, Istanbul turned on some wet and cold weather which didn't interfere at all with our sightseeing but did tempt us in to buying a leather jacket (Paul) and a long sleeve T-shirt for Robby.

Our hotel was well located on the edge of the Marmara Sea in the old city of Sultanahmet and just around the corner from the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia and the Basiclica Cistern. What a spot!

We arrived the last day of Ramadam and the beginning of Bayram which for many of us does not mean a lot but here in Istanbul, it is a time to eat up big, time with the family, loads of free sweets and restaurants full of beautiful aromas, turkish music, happy people offering special deals on everything from carpets to leather coats, ceremics or a meal in a restaurnat.. The Grand Bizarre closed for 3 days.

Mosques are prolific and their grey/blue colour provide a changing vista as the sun or clouds or rain cover the atmosphere. The singing of the muftis or other significant religious head provided hourly echoes of prayer across the city.

The population of this city is the same as that of Australia. It is huge.

We were delighted when friends Ron and Cheryl, who are currently living in the United Arab Emerites, joined us for the weekend. The exchange of adventures and experiences filled the air over a very good bottle of red and white wine that Ron happened to pick up on his way over. And, as the sun set and the Blue Mosque lit up it really reminded us that we are in such a unique, beautiful and different city. The next two days were spent visiting the major attractions, eating extravagently including sampling the taste sensations of the beautiful sweets. The final night of their stay we celebrated in style at one of the worlds oldest towers called Galata Tower and twere entertained for 3 hours non stop by belly dancers, oriental dancers, musicians a very enetertaining singer and was provided with a delicious international meal and free drinks. Ron and Cheryl were stars as they represented Australia in a very good version of belly dancing. Paul's impersonation of a bull as the Spanish people danced to viva espanola and waved the table napkin as the cape to invite the bull was very funny.

It's been great to meet friends again and with Cheryl in her new leather jacket we bid them farewell as they returned to their new home in the UAE.

We decided that we hadn't done Istanbul justice so we spent an additional two days enjoying the Spice Markets, the Grand Bizzare, art galleries and a cruise up the Bosphorus - viewing both the European and Asian side of Istanbul. It is a grand city.

Turkey

From the Ancient Wonder of the Collosus of Rhodes to the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus in Bodrum and The Temple of Artimis near Ephesus in Turkey one would think we should be writing a story on the mysteries, myths and legends of these historical skeletons. Well we're not 'cause we don't know a great deal!

Arrived in Turkey without a map or a travel guide but new we wanted to go to Butterfly Valley, Ephesus and Istanbul. The boat trip from Rhodes to Marmaris took less then an hour and we new we had to make some pretty quick decisions about whether to travel clockwise or anticlockwise around Turkey. A purchase of a travel book, a morning drink and a ponder of the book and we were headed on one the very and efficient and reliable bus services, to a place called Fethye - near Butterfly Valley. It didn't take us long to find a basic hotel and book a day's cruise to our destination. To get to Butterfly Valley requires entry by boat, or if much more adventurous then us, walk, climb slip, slide down very rugged gorges. It is quite a pretty place with the backdrop of these amazing mountain gorges but to our initial disappointment we only had a 40 minute stop here. However, we soon learned that unless you were a hippy and/or loved living under some very primitive coverings or were carrying your own tent then, apart from a walk to the escarpment to a trinkling waterfall and a swim, 40 mins was ample. The rest of the cruise took us to islands of ancient ruins and pristine (apart from rubbish left by tourists) islands off the south coast of Turkey to swim - sometimes in thermal streams - wander around the surrounds until the boat whistled us back on board. And so, we had done Butterfly Valley.

A detailed map in hand (George, your map of Turkey is back on Lesbos) we new that Turkey has much more to offer than the 2 weeks we had allowed so, again we made a choice to be by the seaside as much as possible so now headed clockwise. Firstly to a thriving tourist/boating harbour of Bodrum. We seem to be very attracted to places with harbours. The sailing boats here are much bigger and grander than anywhere else we have been. They were moored 2 and 3 abreast and the harbour full. This time of the year there are not nearly as many tourists and most of the boats are anchored endeavouring to get the 'odd' tourist before winter calls.

We know we are in Turkey because we are having tea instead of coffee (haven't seen hide nor hair of a Turkish Coffee yet), breakfast at our hotels consist of a pile of sweet olives, sliced cucumber, sliced tomato and a boiled egg (cooked to perfection), fresh crusty bread and tea. A pleasant change and appealing for the first couple of days! The shops are a riot of colour with many displaying garlands of red chilly, turkish carpets multiplying before our very eyes, and the drule? enducing shops full of turkish delights and pistacio baclava. Turkish baths are in every town.

Of course the food presents us with a new menu from which to choose a finely kneaded pide, doner kebabs to die for and lamb casseroles and vegetables that provide a new taste sensation.

Our onward journey took us to Selcuk (pronounced Sellchook) to visit Ephesus an incredibly beautiful ruined city built around 1000 BC.

Selcuk was also a good place to celebrate Robby's birthday Turkish style. The birthday is probably more interesting than Ephesus so let me give you details. Breakfast - vegemite and toast - a real treat after over 6 months with just a smidgen, as well as a champagne that Paul had lugged from Greece.This was followed by a 2-3 hour wander around Ephesus and a visit to a carpet factory and topped off with a Gozleme for lunch. Siesta then gave us enough energy to visit St Pauls ruined Basilica and to see the final home of the Virgin Mary. A final historic treat was visiting the one column and few marble rocks of the Temple of Artemis. All this before a Turkish Bath.

Wonder how many of you have had this experience? Just like in the story books and pictures of the old turkish baths this presented us with the magic that is Turkey. The totally marbled room was flanked by brass taps and small marble water troughs. The people sat or layed on marble in their turkish bath towels, just sweating it out and occasionally douced themselves with cooler water for relieving the intensity of the heat. This was followed by a defoliation scrub, a lather wash and then a firm massage.

We felt on top of the world and ready for birthday dinner but half-way through, we almost fell asleep in our stuffed vegetables and stew. Not even a nightcap was needed for sleeping.

So thanks to everyone who sent texts, emails and messages of good wishes. It was really appreciated at this distance.

The next day, flew from Izmir to Istanbul.

Will include pictures when on faster computer.

Slipping across to Santorini

We new our friends Vic and Vicki were travelling to Santorini at some stage but not sure when so a quick text and within moments we new exactly when and it fitted perfectly with our plans.

We needed to wait around in Crete for a few more days whilst, thanks to George and Debbie, our new cards were sent from Australia. So, with Santorini only 2 hours by fast boat we thought what a great idea, a different Greek island and to catch up with friends again.

The trip we initially booked was cancelled on the morning due to bad seas. However, within an hour we were on another catamaran mono-hulling as we crossed the swollen seas. Within record time we reached Santorini to the welcome of Vic and Vcki with sign in hand in case they didn't recognise us.

What is it that when we meet up with friends it is time for converstion, eating and drinking - I guess we are social animals. By 2 pm we were happily sampling an exotic Greek mezze and sipping cocktails. It was also our friend Murray's 50th birthday back home so with Vic's wonderful technical skills and computer we skyped him to wish him those things that you say when someone reaches 50 and you have had a drink or two. Not sure that he enjoyed the contact as much as we did given our state and the fact we had woken him but we all tried chatting with him and consoling him with great outbursts of laughter and frivolity. (On rereading this, it doesn't sound nearly as funny as it was at the time but I guess we have all had these moments.)

After all that, an afternoon siesta was in store before more eating and drinking. Tales of travel could keep the four of us excitedly recalling the joys that preceded us all.

Vic and Vicki spoilt us by booking 1st class accommodation for us at the Sea Breeze on Kamari Beach. Perfect location, right on the beach with the esplande flanked by restaurants both on the beach and across the pedestrian road (Terrigal could learn a lot from this - we think).

George our hotel host was also a restaurnateur and with Baked Lamb in a Paper Bag and Greek salad, we all waddled back to our room for an ouzo nightcap and to sleep off the day and the excitement of birthdays and another reunion. Sounds totally indugent and it was!

The next day Vic and Vicki had organised a hire car to see the island. Vic, who most of you know is a very adaptable, confident, multitasked and obliging person and a bloody good driver to boot, wound us through the narrow zig zag road to the top of one of the mountains to Old Thera which I would love to tell you more about but, none of us had done our homework - even Vic conceded he need his guide certificate for Thera! It was old and interesting and was once a civilisation, that was, before the 1600 or 1700 BC volcana. Archeologists have found this ancient village but no remains of human life. People didn't return to Santorini until 800 years after the volcano- that's the extent of our knowledge.

Next we weaved our way through the streets of Oia dodging the colourful and gold studded groups from the numerous cruise ships anchored just off the shore. We wondered what it would be like to be tagged with a number and following a guide with some crazy object hanging from stick. Who knows, when we are a little older (or may be a good bit older) it might be our preference? In fact Pavlos has suggested it is on the books for his 80th.

After taking in aspects from all angles of the compass, we finally found a cosy hotel - The Enigma - perched on the side of Fira and with hand clutched around another cocktail, we watched the sunset ease its way into the sea.

And so, again we have shared a wonderful few hours with our friends and as we bidded them farewell and the taxi disappeared, we packed our bags and headed back to Fira for some serious tourist perving and to wait for our boat back to Crete.

The 5:30 pm departure left at 8:30 and the 2 hr crossing ended up being 3 hours without airconditioning and with rough seas. I'll say no more about that catamaran trip!

Tonight we head to Rhodes (by plane) for a day or so before heading to Turkey.

You might notice we have a new camera so photos are again appearing on our blog. Also, thanks to everyone that keep us in touch (Fellie you really do keep us up to date with back home and whilst you're not here physically we feel you are) by comments, texts or emails it has helped us from not getting too travel weary or homesick.

Crete - another side of Greek Life

Change in plans meant we spent 8 days on Crete. Interestingly this is the Greek Island that determines the southern border of Europe. Skirted by the Aegean in the north and the Libyan Sea in the south it is one of the larger greek islands but has a slightly different Greek flavour in its cuisine which provided us with new taste sensations that included roasted, stifado - veal, cuttlefish, snails and enjoyed (or not) the taste of raki and some very good white wines.

Our mode of transport for the adventure of Crete was to hire a yellow Chevrolet Matiz car. What a great move! We followed the roads which crisscrossed this island. The huge moutain ranges meant that on one side, we could almost be blown off the road by the strong winds, the scenery of stark white poxy limestone rock resembling snow in the distance and ancient ruins close up; through huge gorges and past mysterious caves and then crossing the mountain range into calmness and fertile fields of citrus trees, grapevines and ordered olive groves that looked like a supurb patchwork across the mountainside into the valleys.

The road maps we obtained lead us on some deadend roads, into villages that didn't exist on the map and up narrow streets that came to such a narrow point we needed to reverse our way out. Despite one or two minor rifts (or misunderstandings) these diversions lead us to backstreet experiences of local people carrying out their daily activities. (Robby is still a little bemused at the fact that it is the men that seem to sit around and drink coffee - not the women.) This holiday, or our current way of life, brings the joy of not having to be at a particular place at a given time as we only book our accommodation when we get to wherever we are going and most of the time we don't know where that is until we get there!

The beauty of Crete is not only in its natural environment but along every stretch of road there are signs to ancient monestries where we were transfixed by the ancient icons; archeological sites which date back to the Minoans of 2000 BC - we walked in their footsteps, visited their palaces (Knossos); learned more about the myths and wondered and pretended to be part of their mystery.

The weather and beaches surprised and pleased us with the water temperature around 21 degrees (eat your heart out the swim group) with each days temperature ranging from min 20 to max 35. September is definitely the time of the year to come to Crete, not to mention the cheap accommodation.

Thanks to Deb and Geroge, all our replacement cards are on their way to Crete so whilst we mark time for them to arrive we decided to visit Santorini (just 2 hrs from Crete - Heralkion).

Rome - Vespars, Smart Cars and Chariots

So we didn't make it to Sicily or the other islands. Instead, as we cruised across the Adriatic from Croatia to Italy, we decided on a short trip to Rome and then take in Crete.
With 3 days in Rome you can walk many kilometres and take in historic sites at every corner, laneway or in the middle of the streets.
The hop on, hop off bus meant we could see a number of sites in one day. However, after spending at least half day at the Vatican, the museum, Sistene Chapel and St Peters Basilica and Square, it was almost an overload so, instead of hoping on and off again we simply walked to the Spanish Steps (rested our weary bones) and Trevi Fountain (made a wish). Icecreams, pizzas and water sustained us throughout the day.
Another day, we spent around the Roman Forum and the Colisseum. The grandeur and yet blood-thirsty past of the Colosseum intrigued us so a tour gave us much more information together with reading some history of it has shed some light on the spectaclulars including the thousands of animals that were mutilated and killed, the sadistic ways of killing human beings - supposed criminals and the 'sport' of the gladiators - all in the name of an emporor, king or other dominant and powerful leader. The book called The Colosseum shed some factual, controversial and humorous slants to the tall tales that exist about the Coleseum.
We had two evening meals in the one restaurant just near our hotel. Why, well this middle-aged lady with this crazy little restaurant full of trinkets and stuffed toys was recommended to us. The meals were truly home cooked by her mother. The veal and pasta filled and exceeded our appetites, her wine was cheap and once more on both occasions she gave us a free bottle of wine as we left. And this is in Rome!
So, with a day just strolling around Rome's amazing artworks and prestigous shops and with our newly acquired emergency credit card we then flew to Crete.