Argentina - What will we do next?

Our plan is to be in Buenos Aires around 20 June so, with 6 days to spare we decided to look at the map and point to 3 or 4 place names that we have never heard of and, not on the tourist map, and see if we can get there and what we might find.

The bus system here in Argentina is very efficient and reliable so with names in hand we find ourselves on an overnight express bus, 10 hours in the most comfortable first class bed (even better than some of our hotel rooms) and arriving at Corrientes at 7 am. We left temperature of 27 degrees at 9 pm in Peurto Iguazu and arrive to 12 degrees and high wind factor and wet. Paul was the centre of attention with his shorts and open shirt. We spent the morning having coffee, purchasing sweaters and visiting a gallery and found we could get to our next destination, Goya (chose this 'cause he was an artist), the same afternoon. This time had a birds eye view of the passing scenery as we sat at the top of the double decker up the front seats. The three hours past by very quickly.

Goya was a quaint smaller country town on the river Parana. (We are following this rio all the way from Iguazu to Buenos Aires). Didn't take long to realise this is mainly a fishing town with nothing much else (a grafiti sign said; 'goya is dead') and at this point we made a decisuon that we should make this a food and wine expedition as well as sight seeing. A restaurant recommended to us by a local lead us to a very 'happy' evening of pate, steak, fish and a Lattitude 33 Cab Sav topped off with the owners own special liquor.

Our next destination, Santa Fe, 'cause we liked the name, and a 3 hour bus trip had us in a much larger city and with the bus terminal conveniently located near the centre and close to hotels, we were within walking distance of everything. So, out on the streets we headed. We like the long plazas they have here. Few, if any, shopping malls, crowds of shoppers. It seems that most shops stay open until around 10 pm - some close from around 1 pm to 4 pm. Resisting any temptations to buy, especially leather clothes, we headed for a bar and ordered a martinini which came with accompanying olives, nuts, and a plate of tapas - and that was just part of the service, no extra. We had passed a classy looking entrance to an Italian restaurant so returned to find it hidden through three lots of stained glass doors, smart looking waiters showed these two scruffy travellers to a table and before long a bottle of Bosca Luigu Cab Sav and pasta and veal satisfied our appetites.

The next day we decided to visit the contemporary museum and walk through the historical part of town. To our surprise there was no one around. Not even at 12 noon and it was Saturday. Couldn't work out what was going on so, finding the gallery closed headed back to the bus terminal to find a bus going somewhere.

We arrived in Rosario 3 hours later. A kind taxi driver took us from place to place to find accommodation. You can't trust the 'Rough Guide' books, two of the hotels they suggested were just skeleton of buildings. Finally decided the Hotel Presidente was fit for us - in fact a little above our usual class but after going to five hotels we thought we should just take it. It was then we found out it was fathers day in Argentina and, it was Sunday, not Saturday. Oh well, I guess holidays are like that - just lose track of days. OK does anyone know what is important about Rosario? This is the birth place of Che Guevara and as it turned out there was a photo exhibition of him and family. Interesting and lucky for us that galleries open at 4 pm and close at 10 pm on public holidays. Oh there was also an exhibition on Croatia so, (Vic and Vicki, it looks great) knowing we will hopefully be there later in the year, viewed this too. After this a pizza and beer was in order.

The next day in Rosario was again quiet. It was Monday - we had our days right - and later found out it was the Argentinian Flag Day. Rosario celebrates with gusto. The flag, blue and white was hanging everywhere and at the national obilesque women, with their Singer sewing machines were diligently assembling Argentina's biggest flag (around the size of two blocks) after which, in a ceremony, the locals raise it and carry it around and around the block. Quite an amazing and very patriotic sight. Can't quite imagine the same being done with the Australian flag. At lunch time we found a wonderful sunny spot and following the wine and food thing, a cold Latitude Chardonnay and hamburger we just watched the passing parade. Oh, one other thing here at Rosario was the Amigos Club of Torinos. Torinos are cars. Around 150 all dolled up with leather seats, rich colours and psychadelic painted engines were on display.

So this is the end of our pick a box tour. We're sitting on our final double decker bus ride before reaching Buenos Aires (5 hours) - upstairs, front seat with the trusty little computer finishing off this posting. Hopefully get it off tonight.

Iguazu - Brazil to Argentina

Iguazu or Iguaçu falls (Argentina/Brazil)

The first sign that makes you realise you´re near the falls is the attack on the auditory senses of a mighty roar coming from the screen of the jungle and above the trees one sees a plume of vapour. It could be a fire but no, it is the Iguazu Falls. On the trail we are approached by the local sheriffs ready to do the scratch and sniff test on our bags - a local native to the area the coati abounds - about the size of a ring-tailed possum but with longer rubbery snout and a striped tail. Cute as they are, when they decide to investigate further their claws firmly attach and there is a battle reclaiming ones bag.

So juggling the bags, camera and coaties is a challenge and they soon get the message - no food, no fun - and off they go.

At first glimpse of the falls one is immediately mesmerised by the size and extent. They stake a claim that these are the largest in the world. (OK Google freaks, check this fact for us.) At this stage we are still in Brazil and the Falls span two countries. The monumentality of the falls and the charging of the negative ions from the velocity and force of the water results in an osmosis of awe. We admired the falls from all angles and drenched ourselves in the mist (you’re a treasure Murray the plastic ponchos you chose well). And so, that was our day on the Brazilian side of the falls.

We topped that off with a visit to a local bird sanctuary and there we were excited by the extent and colour of, in particular, the macaus and toucans. Lo and behold there was also an interesting display of live reptiles. Here we really did see a group (what is plural for snake) of anaconda and we can tell you they were not small. So big, I almost fell over in fear trying to retreat from the cage as Paul stood in awe.

Crossing borders is often a challenge however, we two travellers take it in our stride. A local bus to the Brazilian Immigration for an exit stamp. Another 4 kms in another bus to the Argentinian Immigration for our entry stamp. Now in Argentina, a 10 min bus trip to the bus terminal of Puerto Iguazu, a stop off at the Information Office and there we have it - accommodation, map, reals to pesos and details on how to get to the Argentinian side of the falls. We decide not to rush off, instead go the following day.

We wondered how it could be any different to the previous day. First signs was it was much less commercial. The entry was cheaper and the entrance was less grand. A short walk to a train (bit like Thomas) that took us closer to the falls. The Argentinian side provided extensive boardwalks out over the falls with views that took in the calmness before the huge fall metres below. It generated so much vapour one couldn't see the turbulance below. Another boardwalk took us midway down some of the falls providing an amazing up close and personal experience of the falls. Just the volume and power of these falls was incredible. We decided against taking the boat trip up to the falls as we had been again drenched by the Iguazu (and RW has a cold).

That night we had our first Argentinian steak. That was when we decided that the food here is above average so lets make Argentina and food and wine affair. We then wondered what we would do next.
Pictures later, rushing to catch bus.

Rio De Janeiro, Brazil

'Tall and tan and young and lovely the girl/boy from Ipanema goes walking and... ' there are beautiful bodies, as well as ordinary ones. G Strings yes, also body bulges. We had fun looking. The world is made up of all shapes and sizes and here is no exception.
Both Copacabana and Ipanema beaches are quite stunning geographically, the surf is big - too big for me but Paul ventured in and has lived to tell stories of how he was dumped at Copacabana. I sit on the side and watch the passing parade which is really quite entertaining with the steady stream of vendors selling anything from caps, sarongs, belts, drinks, sweets, icecreams, beer, dresses, prawns on skewers, sun benches or chairs, and all singing to their own songs and calls. It's very entertaining, except if you feel like a snooze in the sun. Sundays the roads are handed to the pedestrians so it is a constant promenade of colour.
Of course 'When I go to Rio, De Janeiro' is constantly ringing through our minds, especially when we step out on the sidewalk in the morning or something exotic or unusual happens, like the guy who pulls a wheelie bin into the middle of the road when the traffic lights turn red, climbs on top and does a juggling act or the man that sits on the corner of Rue Copacabana and Rue Paula Reita and mends saucepans.
'Copa, Copacabana' has been our home for the past 11 days and it has been a real treat to stay put in one place (we rented a rather ritzy apartment) and really get to know the area. From early morning walks along the beach and becoming familiar with the surrounds, the people and feeling good just to do some normal exercise, to sipping pina coladas and caipirinha (a local cocktail) at sunset as well as simply sitting on the beach have all been part of the daily routine.
Of course, we also watched the beautiful movement of artists doing the samba, the capriera and swinging to the rhythm of the bosa nova. Had an historical exposa of Sergio Mendes beginnings, saw the street where people would through plates out of their high rises because of the noise Mendes made below, and, always delighted to hear the singing voices of people passing by in the streets.
Our expense bill is overdrawn here with all the CDs we've bought and special treats we have given ourselves. The Ipanema markets are the best anywhere with lots of stands with real artisans work. A bag here, shoes there, belts here, paintings there - the temptation was too great!
There are over 300 islands off Rio. We visited one the other day - Ille Grande - it was a tour on a schooner. It stopped at various places where we just dived into the ocean, had a swim and snorkel and then moved on. A great day and again met lots of travellers.
For those that know RW well, she is a football (soccer) fan - at least world cup standard - so attending a Brazilian football match was a certainty. We took then opportunity to attend the two top local teams in Rio. Fleminensce and Vasco. Taking the metro there and back was an experience in itself. The match didn't disappoint. All the funfare of a major international game with samba drums, whistles, firecrackers, and roman candles to match the colour of the team. With hotdog, beer and a brazilian bandana, we fitted in really well. The final score 1-1.
A visit to Sugar Loaf Mtn, whilst partly in the mist, did provide spectacular views of the surrounds, the huge rocky mtns, the beaches, the extensive high rise and of course the ride in the cable car was fun.
We celebrated a wedding in style whilst here also. Our dear friends Marty and Marie from Adelaide are now Mr & Mrs. I think, being at this distance gave us ample time to extend celebrations from the Australian time zone to Brazilian. In other words around 36 hours. Whilst all was buzzing away in Adelaide, here in Rio we decorated the apartment with flowers, drank champagne and had a lovely lobster dinner.
So now we bid a fond farewell to Rio and tomorrow head to the Iguazu Falls on the border of Brazil, Paraquay and Argentina.
For now, bye. Thanks to all for the links to Australia. Marlene and Kylie, great to know you are keeping in touch. xx