Oruro, Uyuni - Bolivia

You know you're not far from home when the southern cross is within reach.

How did we get on a local bus when we thought we were on the tourist bus to Oruro? We just looked at one another and thought well it must be meant to be. 3 hours later arrived in a town called Oruro. We hopped off thinking we were at the bus terminal but no, we were way out in the sticks. Guess our Spanish wasn't working too well. A taxi later we were in the town, at least we thought we were but again we were at the real bus terminal. So another taxi ride brought us to the heart of Oruro. So what to say about this place - well the Hari Krishna breakfast was the best. (You see both of us by now, every morning study our adaptation to the local food - it doesn't seem to be happening.) A train ride on the Bolivian Express brought us to the next destination (on the way Paul was certain he saw the ghost of Butch Cassidy - I think it was a momentary bout of altitude sickness - he's also changing his name to the Pink Flamingo!).

Uyuni - this is where we started a 4 day sojourn into the wilderness. Never have we been so mesmerized, captured and tantalized by contrasts in landscapes, political views and fascinating travelling companions.

The great salt lake Salar de Uyuni - the worlds largest salt lake captured us within minutes of leaving Uyuni. For two days we spent on or overlooking this great white sea dotted by black islands which have gigantic cacti that grow 1metre every hundred years.

So what do two Aussies, two Germans, two Israelis and an ultra left wing American talk about when they're sharing one room and a four wheel drive for 4 days. After adjusting to the fact that we were the grandparents of the group - being enlightened by this fact of the very young Israelis that we could be their grandparents, the Germans their parents age and them in their early 20s. The group openly, positively and unifyingly acknowledged one anothers diversified opinions and ideologies on religion, politics, economies, war and peace plus many other topics.

The vastness beyond the salt lake distorted space between mountain and desert. The vanishing point was only the blue sky. We drove/walked to heights of 4600 mtrs, saw snow capped mountains, active volcano and numerous extinct ones. The desert changed from boulder like structures (surreal Salvador Daliesque) to smaller rocks and sand. Rain never falls in some parts of this barren landscape. Scattered along the way were lakes edged by pink flamingos, pink and green algae that changed the colour of the lakes, geysers, hot natural springs, llamas, an Andean Fox and 4 flat tyres, freezing temperatures, sunburnt lips, dry mouth, disgusting banos and cold showers. This was an adventure that will remain in our souls forever.

Today, we're waiting until 8 pm to catch the Express Tourist Bus back to La Paz - a 12 hour trip in airplane-like seats. We opt for luxury when we can. You´re all having a holiday for Anzac Day.

So friends from North Avoca, practice saying Oruro and Uyuni after a night at the Bowlo!!!!

Adios Robby and Pink Flamingo

La Paz - Bolivia

Storytellers, political demonstrations, witchdoctors, markets

What strikes you most about arriving in Bolivia, at least La Paz, is the instant recognition that you are in a place where the population is characterised by the indiginous people. Women in sombreo (like a bowler hat) extravagant layered skirts and usually carrying child or supplies in a very colourful shawl-like papoos on there back.

Our 3 days in La Paz helped us to acclimatise to the height of around 3600 mtrs. Both of us have struggled with this with dizzyness, nausea, headaches - altitude sickness. Even the cocoa leaves didn't produce the results we expected. Now in our 5th day and heading to the Salar de Uyuni we are still having trouble but hoping that by the time we reach the great salt lakes the adjustment will have taken place.

So some interesting points in La Paz so far:

Posting parcel back to Australia. Oh how by doing normal things you can learn so much. We purchased two sombreos. (Kerry they are addressed to you.) Found the internationacional department at the post office. There was a queue of around 8 gringos (that's us). Language interpretation was challenging however the parcel was packed and stitched in a deliberate and precise way. They giggled that the package was so light. Then two forms in quadruplicate completed and the wait began. The officer in charge of weighing and paying laborously spent around 15 mins for each package. That meant we would be around 2 hrs before we hit the paying officer. No worries we could wait (or could we). Having waited for around 1 hr, the officer decided to have a lunch break. After 30 mins he returned, we decided to see if we could take our package and come back the next day. One of the packaging ladies tried to jump the queue for us but we insisted no - as did most of the people in front of us. But to her delight she realised our package was under 1kg and pointed us up stairs. So we did and within 5 mins it was on its way to Australia.

Spanish lesson in Bolivia.
2 hours is not really enough for anything except that we had private lesson in the home of the teacher Isabel. We learned how to say My name is... Plus I come from Australia. Also a few verbs and boring stuff like that. We may go back on our way through La Paz but now with the Latin American Spanish Phrasebook in hand (thanks Ron and Chris) we are saying lots more words and people begin to understand us. The problem is when they speak back to us.

The natural surrounds... The city of La Paz cowers in a narrow canyon gouged from the ´high Altiplano, and is dwarfed by the magnficant icebound peak of Mount Illimani, which rises imperiously to the southeast.

Oh yes and what about the storytellers, political demonstrations and witchdoctors. Well, in La Paz, at any time of day in the main area around the San Francisco Church are groups of people crowded around a single person - some just telling stories, others spruking political beliefs and others selling the benefits of mysterious plants and mummified llama. There are numerous political demonstrations accompanied by firecrackers, police, rifles, armour riot gear but as yet no tear gas.

'If images take awhile to download, forgive us, we are in internet cafes where the technology doesn´t allow us to resize.´ If anyone has any tips from the internet let us know.

Chile

So Chile is behind us now. We certainly didn´t waste any time getting out and about, pounding the streets, the plazas, taking in the architectue, finding a gallery or two and opening all senses to new and different experiences.

Just a few of these things...
Our new luggage lost a screw! Now have you ever gone looking for a screw in a country where you don´t speak the language. Well of course you would go to the markets yes? While there have a coffee yes? There is always someone who strikes up a conversation and likes to ´´practice´their english. Finish coffee and next we are being escorted to the nearest ´hardware´store. Hand shakes and adios and there we are. Screws of all sizes, point and pick. Everyone happy.

Next Paul was taken by the hat store. All shapes and sizes from highly decorated sombreo to panama. He was like a kid in a candy store.

One thing we had forgotten was that the main meal is at lunch time. Well we went into a restaurant for a light snack. There were loads of locals (we found out later it is the top meat restaurant in Santiago) and asked for a menu. Nothing was in English and the waiter had no pity for us so we pointed to two things. What we eneded up with was a plate of potatoes and another of beans - both lovely and fresh :). We thought, OK, lets see if we could order a snag to go with it. The best way to do this was to take the waiter to a table that was eating sausages and point. Minutes later we had two snags. Well with a couple of beers we got the bill. $30 for that memorable experience.

We took a tour to Valaparise, a major coastal city about one and half hours from Santiago. Its built on the edge of the Pacific where there are no sharks ´cause its too cold. The city is unique in that it was ´never discovered it was just born´ whatever that means. It´s scattered with colourful houses around many hills with many funiculars which are used to access the houses of every colour, shape and size which hang rather vicariously. For us it was noteable because of the amazing grafitti art work (see picture) that brought symbolism and lie to the steep and narrow streets and walkways. It´s also the home of Pablo Neruda, the famous Nobel prize winner for literature (OK so who new that?).

Now in Bolivia. One might think flying is just a means of getting around but i can assure you that the flight from Santiago is somthing else. We were ascending just as dawn was breaking. My first private thoughts were Í hope we fly higher than the range of Andes that stretch to the right of the plane´. Well we didn´t, instead, we flew just to the west of them - they were on our right and we seemed to be lower. The range changed in mysterious ways as the sun rose behind the snow peaked tops. Just like you see in postcards.

Now in La Paz. Really feel we are in a very different country now. The altitude is getting to us. However, we immersed ourselves in the city of streetside stalls, markets and lots of women in their Bolivian costume. It is buzzing here and we intend to see much more of the country side of deserts, salt lakes, mountains and lakes.

Chile is hot

Hi Everyone, Well we made it. Still sorting out whether we should be asleep or awake but our taste of Santiago was a great start to South America. Getting the ear for Spanish is tough but the people and surrounds wonderful. The big differences have been, salsa instead of tomato sauce, corn dishes, lots of outdoor markets and the language.
Now on our way to Bolivia. Tis, early in the morning, can´t think too clearly but just wanted to drop a line to say hi. Qantas lounge has great facilities so thought would take advantage. Will have more time in La Paz so hope to include some photos.
Robby Paul

This is it

We are at the airport. The last night was again filled with wonderful messages and good cheer for our trip. With all the beautiful thoughts and positive vibes from our friends we are going to have the most amazing holiday. Thank you to everyone. The final night in Australia was in the way of a very tasty gift from Inger and Dennis (Moet), Greek meal (Diethnes) with Kerry Jason Gitte Jo and Anita and a final nightcap at the Slip Inn. Thanks everyone for the phone messages.
See ya, we're off Robby and Paul

Farewells abound

Starting on Friday evening had a lovely dinner and exchange of travel tales at Vic and Viki’s. Ron and Christine had some wonderful stories of their adventure to South America in 1976. Could you imagine? They took a boat from Sydney to Panama and then travelled 6 months around South America.
Sunday, more farewells with Pete and Pam from the Kiwi farm. Big turkey lunch – a farewell to Fellie (she’s off to Noumea doing a French thing) and topped off with a yummy danish apple cake from Gitte. Only 11 days to go.

Greece calling

A last minute change - Oh what a surprise to hear from Lesbos, a friend on a Greek Island where I house/cat sat in 2001. Just last week a few very quick phone calls resulted in a change of plan to head straight to Lesbos after South America. This will be a treat after trekking the jungles and mountains of South America, head straight to Lesbos for a summer retreat with plenty of rest, ouzo, swimming and tavernas.